This is the tenth video in a detailed series featuring important aspects of finishing, sanding, gluing and clamping a traditional solid wood door. http://AskWoodman.com/
Video 10 shows how to save time and money by using standard sheets of sandpaper and a half sheet sander. Woodman explains how this is the most economical way to buy and use sandpaper, especially when you cut it down yourself. He shows easy technique to quickly split the full sheets of sandpaper into exact halves for use on a half sheet sander. Woodman recommends using high quality paper which will save you money in time and paper. He stresses "Sanding The Sequence" and briefly discusses his sanding theory. Woodman uses a Festool halfsheet sander the majority of his sanding work. (See video 11 for more details on this)
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Be sure to check out the other videos in the Solid Wood Door Series. The complete series starts with explaining how to build a stunning tung oil based finish using Waterlox Original. It also shows detailed instruction for how to prep the surface, how to glue and clamp mortise and tenon joints using PC7 and various clamps, how to make blow out repairs, and multiple sanding techniques and philosophy. As a bonus, you'll see my very unique door holding system that spins effortlessly on a rotisserie style mechanism to ensure perfect finish application.
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Want to know which tools and products that AskWoodman uses? Interested in learning more woodworking techniques? Read the articles that go with AskWoodman videos at http://AskWoodman.com/.
Allan Little is AskWoodman™
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My home has cherry cabinets, doors, windows and trim finished with Waterlox. Two problems. First, there are several places that have significant planer ripple. I'm thinking I need to go back and re-sand with 80, 100, 120, then 150, and refinish. Second, the finish is very thin in most areas. I'm thinking I need to "scratch" with 320 grit then build up with additional coats. Does this sound like the right move? Any tips on vertical surfaces?
Chrissers2010 10 months ago
@Chrissers2010 There is no other way to get the ripple out. Since there is finish on it, start your sequence with 80grit open coat or no load paper so the finish will not clog your paper and waste you time and money. 3m makes a floor sanding paper called Resinite that comes in rolls. My hardware store sells it by the foot so I can buy just what I need. It is designed to cut through old floor finishes without clogging. Vertical surfaces just require lighter coats. Scratch, vacuum, then brush.
askwoodman 10 months ago
@Chrissers2010 Feel free to write me at askwoodman@gmail and will help you with more details if you like. The good thing is that cherry sands very nicely without much trouble. Allan
askwoodman 10 months ago
i just started wood working and i try to watch all of your videos. you have tought me alot. thanks
jnr7510 11 months ago
@jnr7510 Thanks for watching. I know I can be a little long winded but don't want to leave any important info out for those who are interested. I have hours and hours of video on the way and even more planned. What aspect of woodworking interests you most? Feel free to ask questions and keep in touch. Allan
askwoodman 11 months ago
thank you.i wish i knew this 500 dollars ago.youve helped me save alot of money,,,,thanks bill
mrcrimpster 1 year ago
@mrcrimpster Hi Bill, Thank you for commenting. I have sanded so much in my time as a woodworker that I no longer dread it. I actually get some of my best abstract thinking done while just sanding on auto pilot. What kind of project were you working on? I am happy to answer any question sent to me. And if I don't know the answer I will say so.
askwoodman 1 year ago