@616eric Fiberglass can be installed at R-60. Sadly, this foam job looks to be around R-13, or @ 1/5 the r-value of R-60 fiberglass that probably would have been around the same cost. If you are looking to save energy, than insulation is an investment. If you have a certain amount to invest and you could go R-13 spray foam, or R-60 fiberglass.............simple explanation as to why people that choose foam are in the dark when it comes to home energy and return on investments. Common sense!
@616eric There is and American Lung Association stamp on one of the loose-fill brands. The govt. did ban the old type, now loose-fills are very easy to be around. Plus the old stuff only caused cancer in people that would install it for a living, not people in the house. 85%+ of insulation is still fiberglass, not because of lobbyists, because it is safer, cheap, made out of an extremely abundant material(sand), and can be made out of recycled material, installed at R-60, installed at R-60, R-60
Last thing, Most foams need an intermescent coating, due to the fact that they burn easily. What foam is installed determines if a coating is needed, each foam has special coatings that are tested "in a system" to perform correctly. These guys tried... but they kind of screwed you, (and the worst part is the foamers were not trained properly) and the area you live probably does not have strict rules against this kind of crime. Heck you thought they did good. Shoot me the state u in 4 info
Also the fiberglass is "supposed to removed". It has been banned in some countries. People will wear the haz mat suits to get it out due to the fact that is causes cancer. Also did you know that the Pink Fiberglass does not need to pass the "NFPA 286" like Foam does. I wonder Why that Is? Oh yeah Lobbyist ......
The foam is supposed to wrap around the roof rafters to stop thermal conductivity (Solar Heat Gain) thru the wood... into the attic area. Normally 5 to 6 inches, this basically covers the wood, (so that one more spray around the beam is no big deal). Looks like you took the "best deal" from the cheaper side of your quotes. You did not even get the R-19 you said you paid for. (looks like R-13 from here)
Also, you may want to ask the installer... What product it is then get back with me. Eric
@lrd9999 Just a few days ago I weatherized a 1984 home to 8% too tight. 4 cans of foam, 5 tubes of caulk, new door weatherstripping, 1 gallon duct sealant and about 6-8 hours, minneapolis blower door, and patience is all you need. The most important leaks to seal are in your ceiling. I just looked at the video again, this lady needs to get some money back from this company, that is NOT r-19.
@d1incharge After a second reading, I get what you mean by "poke a big hole"; you'd have to add a source of fresh air to keep the replacement rate safe. Probably true of a perfectly sealed new house (in which case, an A2A heat exchanger would probably be the best way to avoid heating the outside), but if you're adding foam to an existing house, it depends on every other possible source of leakage. I suspect it would take a lot more than a little foam to make an older house "too tight".
@d1incharge Can't say for sure when and if spray foam is a better solution. I've seen horror stories with fiberglass, but you're right that rampant construction defects are usually involved. I do remember the urea-formaldahyde disaster of the '70s, but urethane was around before that and after; I've not heard anything similar about it. No reason for lost sleep either way; I expect that fiberglass will have the bulk of the market for the foreseeable future for (at least) one reason: price.
@616eric Fiberglass can be installed at R-60. Sadly, this foam job looks to be around R-13, or @ 1/5 the r-value of R-60 fiberglass that probably would have been around the same cost. If you are looking to save energy, than insulation is an investment. If you have a certain amount to invest and you could go R-13 spray foam, or R-60 fiberglass.............simple explanation as to why people that choose foam are in the dark when it comes to home energy and return on investments. Common sense!
HomeEnergyNow 5 months ago
R-60 How you figure that? No way that is R-60
616eric 6 months ago
@616eric There is and American Lung Association stamp on one of the loose-fill brands. The govt. did ban the old type, now loose-fills are very easy to be around. Plus the old stuff only caused cancer in people that would install it for a living, not people in the house. 85%+ of insulation is still fiberglass, not because of lobbyists, because it is safer, cheap, made out of an extremely abundant material(sand), and can be made out of recycled material, installed at R-60, installed at R-60, R-60
HomeEnergyNow 6 months ago
A very nice and interesting thing you shared. Thanks for sharing.
blossom2347 7 months ago
Last thing, Most foams need an intermescent coating, due to the fact that they burn easily. What foam is installed determines if a coating is needed, each foam has special coatings that are tested "in a system" to perform correctly. These guys tried... but they kind of screwed you, (and the worst part is the foamers were not trained properly) and the area you live probably does not have strict rules against this kind of crime. Heck you thought they did good. Shoot me the state u in 4 info
616eric 1 year ago
Also the fiberglass is "supposed to removed". It has been banned in some countries. People will wear the haz mat suits to get it out due to the fact that is causes cancer. Also did you know that the Pink Fiberglass does not need to pass the "NFPA 286" like Foam does. I wonder Why that Is? Oh yeah Lobbyist ......
616eric 1 year ago
The foam is supposed to wrap around the roof rafters to stop thermal conductivity (Solar Heat Gain) thru the wood... into the attic area. Normally 5 to 6 inches, this basically covers the wood, (so that one more spray around the beam is no big deal). Looks like you took the "best deal" from the cheaper side of your quotes. You did not even get the R-19 you said you paid for. (looks like R-13 from here)
Also, you may want to ask the installer... What product it is then get back with me. Eric
616eric 1 year ago
@lrd9999 Just a few days ago I weatherized a 1984 home to 8% too tight. 4 cans of foam, 5 tubes of caulk, new door weatherstripping, 1 gallon duct sealant and about 6-8 hours, minneapolis blower door, and patience is all you need. The most important leaks to seal are in your ceiling. I just looked at the video again, this lady needs to get some money back from this company, that is NOT r-19.
d1incharge 1 year ago
@d1incharge After a second reading, I get what you mean by "poke a big hole"; you'd have to add a source of fresh air to keep the replacement rate safe. Probably true of a perfectly sealed new house (in which case, an A2A heat exchanger would probably be the best way to avoid heating the outside), but if you're adding foam to an existing house, it depends on every other possible source of leakage. I suspect it would take a lot more than a little foam to make an older house "too tight".
lrd9999 1 year ago
@d1incharge Can't say for sure when and if spray foam is a better solution. I've seen horror stories with fiberglass, but you're right that rampant construction defects are usually involved. I do remember the urea-formaldahyde disaster of the '70s, but urethane was around before that and after; I've not heard anything similar about it. No reason for lost sleep either way; I expect that fiberglass will have the bulk of the market for the foreseeable future for (at least) one reason: price.
lrd9999 1 year ago