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Converting your Turnigy Motor to a Pusher Mount

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Uploaded by on Mar 26, 2010

Real quick video on how to converting your Turnigy Motor to a Pusher Motor. The method is a little crude, but seems to work well. Both Frank and I have used these converted motors on planes that routinely break a 100mph.

You will need to source the correct size shaft collars for the motor you are converting. Typically the 28mm motors us a 4mm collar and the 36mm motors use a 5mm collar. I usually just buy wheel collars from hobbyKing.com. They sell them in 10 packs. hope this is helpfully.

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Uploader Comments (rcFoamFighters)

  • where do you get the collars from? why do you need them?

  • @silverfd you can find them usually at your local or online hobby shop. Look for Wheel or Axel collars. If you can't find them there you can search on Amazon I have gotten them there before. The reason you need the collar is because the retaining E-Clip dos not have a slot to go in the new shaft position. The collar replaces the eclip and makse sure the motor bell and shaft wont come flying off!

  • hey, great stuff your doing again. i used you technique to build. its the 1st time i could get em flying..so mucho thanx. i do have a question about a step in this vid. once u balance the motor on something, did u just pull out the insides???? can u do that?? i missed it. how? also u start tapping only after the inside is removed?? i cant believe no one asked u that. thanx again.

  • @Loye911 Once you remove the E-clip, you can slide the can with the shaft out of the motor. The e-clip is all thet holds the 'Insides" in. After teh clip is removed it should easily slide out. The Shaft will be in the can side of the motor.

  • Nice vid Paul very well done.

  • @flyby8906

    Thanks Gregg! Hmmm, weird I replied to you already once, but it doesn't show here. So I added it again. Anyway, good work on your polaris video. Can't wait to see more of your other planes too. Thanks Gregg!

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All Comments (63)

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  • It sounds like you have been palgued with this question. If I understand correctly, this mod is only necessary if you are not mounting the motor on the prop end.

  • Is this mod necessary when mounted as a pusher motor? I know there are motors with reversed timings for slight improvements in performance but what's gained by adding a collet? Do this motor shafts move when used in this configuration?

  • At 2:00 when you put the set screw back in, didn't you have to file another flat spot since the shaft had now been moved?

  • Just a word of warning. When you fix the motor mount to the motor make sure that there is enough clearance for the grub screw so that it doent foul on the motor mount and burn out the motor as this would stop rotation. If you remove the shaft completely and reverse the shaft you can use the flattened side of the shaft to fix the grub screw. No messy filing.

  • how do you remove the E-clip or something?

    I tried it but i'm rather braking the clip than removing it

  • OK I did the operation but the 2 little washers went flyiing under the work bench of course (where else) but the 5mm collar I put on has a little slant on each side and after the flat grind theres absolutely no play . Does the motor absolutely HAVE to have those tiny washers or am I ok ? ps. you should warn about the washers in your video .

  • Instead of pounding on the end of the shaft to push it through I came up with a more delicate solution. If you have any size drill press in your shop it makes a great arbor press for pressing the motor shaft to the correct length in the motor can. I had a lot more control adjusting the length and no chance of bending the case. Thanks for the how-to Paul!

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