Screen Printing - One Stroke, No Flash, White on Black

Let us show you how to print white ink on black T-shirts with a SINGLE stroke and NO flash. Yes, it can be done - once you know how! http://schoolofscreenprinting.com - http://solutionsjournal.com

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[topstuff001]

Does anyone know if this would work with the White Permaset Aqua Supercover?

[billhoodconsulting]

@topstuff001 - I have had a good many screenprinters use the same technique with waterbase and with great success. Depending on the drying time of the waterbase ink and the speed at which one prints, you may determine that you want to "flood" the screen to prevent the ink from drying out too quickly.

[bitriotrecords]

Awesome video. Applying this technique to 1/1 coated 110 mesh, we are getting great results. Sometimes we need to do a flash and second stroke but this is almost always due to not cleaning the screen out properly between sessions. Either way, the Fill stroke method is 100% better.

[billhoodconsulting]

@bitriotrecords - Thanks! Try coating the screen slightly thicker to achieve a thicker deposit of ink. Use an Electronic Thickness Gauge to determine the correct thickness. To clear the mesh better, increase the off contact slightly.

[Dalton216]

ya sorry i wrote that comment just before i heard you say it on the video. im just not getting the results you are... im using the same ink and 110 mesh but if i dont push down hard enough the ink stays in the screen?

[billhoodconsulting]

@Dalton216 - If the ink is not clearing the stencil, you need to increase your off contact, not the pressure. You should be printing the ink on the surface of the garment, not pushing it into the material.

[emaldo1012]

Hi Bill, Bill I watch your video, thank you for it, Bill I"m having hard time with the white I'm not able to get it done.

I'm using Ryonet ink and 110 mesh, I tried your idea and the pull, but still.

What ink do you recommend it?

Thank you for your help

[breezie1977]

I've been struggling with getting even, opaque, clean, sharp whites on black shirts and recently bought some of the Ryonet Super Opaque water based white which is very good, but still doesn't seem to leave an extremely smooth or even finish... until I tried your method here. One pass, boom. Job done. Excellent video.

In reply to a previous comment, Ryonet say you can use a heat gun to cure water based ink, not plastisol.

[breezie1977]

I've been struggling with getting even, opaque, clean, sharp whites on black shirts and recently bought some of the Ryonet Super Opaque water based white which is very good, but still doesn't seem to leave an extremely smooth or even finish... until I tried your method here. One pass, boom. Job done. Excellent video.

[themightychyn]

@billhoodconsulting Sorry about the confusion, when I said screen I was talking about the mesh. I had a crack at your method of filling up the image with ink on the first stroke then laying it down with a light push stroke, major disaster, that first "image filler" stroke seemed to push way to much ink through and hence the image I layed down was a blotched smeared mess, that aside thanks for taking the time to reply, any help I can get at my stage in the game is appreciated, cheers!

[billhoodconsulting]

@nenemott - Great! If you were using a 305 to get a thinner deposit of ink, try using a bit of curable reducer. You will lose a bit of opacity, but it will go through finer mesh counts. I print white through 330 mesh when I am printing very fine halftones. Large areas require coarser mesh and thicker stencils.

[billhoodconsulting]

@themightychyn - Thanks! The video is about printing plastisol ink on black shirts. Much of the process is the same for any ink. Permaset Aqua ink should pass through a 110-threads-per-inch mesh without a problem. However, what did you mean by "and a 110 screen"? Hopefully, you didn't mean 110 line halftone screen! A 110-threads-per-inch mesh would have a hard time holding a 110-line halftone. Other than that, waterbase inks will dry in the screen unless you work fast.