5-7-09 Blacks Go Pro

Well it was bound to happen later rather than sooner but the swell finally came! The Fish-eye lens on the camera does not do the size justice at all.

I decided to go where it would be the biggest. Blacks Beach never fails in size compared to other breaks and she delivered this morning. I finally felt like a man surfing some waves with some teeth. It has been such a fantastic day. I was in the water by 5:25am and I caught some of the "Canyon Bombs". People call them that because Blacks has a submarine canyon which cuts through the continental shelf coming close to shore and this is why it is always bigger than everywhere else since there isn't as much continental shelf to slow the waves down. Blacks is known for these rogue waves that seem to appear from nowhere and are much larger than the rest of the waves in set. I waited mostly for these lovely gems to come because I want the biggest waves every time I am out. So the day has been amazing since I started out with a blast of a surf session, then when starting my walk up the very steep hill a very nice gentleman who has a key to the gate asked me, "Would you like a ride up?"...that has never happened before and the thought of relieving my quadriceps from the deep burn of the steep hill made me very happy. He was super cool as we chatted (Richard is what I think he said his name was) and then I met J.R. who was very cool as well. On the way home I stopped at Albertsons for Starbucks coffee and randomly won a free $5 worth of Starbucks. Then when I got home I walked in on my two daughters-the oldest one (2yr/10mon) riding her toy car laughing as my youngest (9 months) was holding onto the back and trying to walk who smiled at me. My oldest got off the toy car yelling, "Daddy! Daddy!" and gave me a big hug. Since then work has also been going very well today. I think I will go purchase some lotto tickets. Today is a great day! =)

Click on HQ for high quality if you have the bandwidth.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• Go Pro
• Go Pro Camera
• Hero Camera
• Blacks Beach
• Blacks
• Blacks Surfing
• 5-5-09
• Teqoph Stealth Quad
• Cameron Surfing
• San Diego Surfing