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grinding primary with bench stone

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Uploaded by on Mar 24, 2007

grinding the primary bevel on an old Stanley plane iron using a coarse Silicon Carbide bench stone.

For more on grinding and honing try my web site:

http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/

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Howto & Style

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Uploader Comments (Brentssharpening)

  • Hi, Good video. I might try this. Just wondering, how do you sir ensure that the flat surface of the stone is exactly parallel with the glass surface? The stone might be thicker at one end. Another thing is the flatness of the stone whilst grinding. I think a solution for the flatness of the stone would be to buy 3 of the stones and use them every 30 seconds or so to flatten each other. With 3 stones, same size, same grit on can make three perfectly flat surfaces. What do you think sir?
  • @ali1082

    The stone is parallel because you flip the whole thing upside down on a flat surface when you tighten the wingnuts.

    The stone stays flat because the jig allows you to take full length motions, oscillating side to side. Since you do not grind the edge, it does not matter if the stone is a little out of flat - only the honing works the edge and those abrasives are glued to glass. I have done a lot of grinding and the area used - all but a half-inch at either end - is still plenty flat.

  • I've been trough you website a few times now and it's stating to make sense - I was about to invest in a decent jig such as the MkII from Veritas, but it seems I won't be able to easily achieve your 3 bevel, front & back, with it. The beauty of your jig is a simple flip over allows the corresponding back bevel to be honed, before moving onto the next grade of abrasive. I need to understand more about bevel up blades first, then I'll have a go at making a suitable jig for my thick BU blades

  • @sparlyman

    As discussed in the web pages, low angle bench planes (12 degree bedding angle) do not work well with large micro bevels on the back of the iron. They will cut, but the lower wear bevel reappears quickly and they stop working.

    An alternative is to NOT use the slips when working the back of the iron. Use all three abrasives but all at the same angle. Keep the back honed bevel narrow. Spend almost no time on the 15 micron. Using the 5 micron to the edge. The .5 micron for a bit longer.

  • Superb help. What jig do you use to for a back micro bevel?

  • @greenmoss

    I will add a link to my website from this video. My other video are more about honing than grinding.

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All Comments (10)

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  • @Adbhe

    Yes.

    Look in the phone book. It's that old-fashioned device that always works even when the power is out. When you get to the Senior Center, you'll see some old farts that know things. They know how to do stuff.

    Pay attention to them. You might learn something.

    I'm REALLY glad I did! ;-)

  • This system is deceptively simple. To those not familiar with it, it just looks like an elaborate way of hand-grinding an edge. It is far more than that!

    The bench-jig guarantees coplanar alignment between the smooth-flat glass and the grinding stone.

    The blade-jig insures an accurate grinding angle that is square to the blade-sides.

    Hand grinding prevents "bluing" the steel.

    The whole system is FAST, accurate, simple, easy & inexpensive.

    Need the BEST way to sharpen? THIS IS IT!

  • Can anyone tell me where the senior center is?

  • It is a very nice jig and explaining, I tried and it gets a very straight edge to the blade. Thank you!

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