Atari Color Vector X-Y Tempest (Star Wars) power supply brick

Showing voltage DC and AC output from a Atari Tempest Power Supply brick..
This brick is also used in Star Wars, Space Duel and other color Atari XY vector Games. It cannot be exchanged for a brick used in Atari's raster games like centipede or millipede. Also included in this video is a A/R Board fix.
Testing Pins
(1 - 4) 10.5v DC, (2 - 4) 10.5v DC, (3 - 4) 10.5v DC,
pin 4 - 5 are tied together, (6 - 7) 36 v AC, (8 - 9) 6.1v AC, (10 - 11) 25v AC,
(11 - 13) 25v AC, (10 - 13) 50v AC
Hope this helps!

Category:

Education

Tags:

• Atari
• Color
• Vector
• X-Y
• Tempest
• Star
• Wars
• power
• supply
• brick
• Repair

[Jimjaycee]

After you have the voltage at +5 volts on the a/r 2 board, reinstall the pcb. You will probably have to turn it up just a little to compensate for the voltage being used by the pcb. Test the pcb also to make sure you are getting +5 at the pcb.

I hope this helps.

[Jimjaycee]

That is called run away voltage my friend. +6 volts is to high for the pcb board. It will burn up your edge connector. Consider shot gunning the A/R 2 board. It is easy to do and it is reversible.

I do not know your soldering ability and I make no guarantee that this is going to work, even if

I've done this on my own games.

The following is in regards to the J7 connector

1) connect pin 1&2 soldering in a bridge

2) connect pin 3&6 soldering in a bridge

Adjust your pot to +5 volts w/out pcb.

[Jimjaycee]

I thought I'd mention one other thing regarding the Star Wars A/R Board. There is two plugs on the board that have the same keying. If the board is removed, use a Sharpie marker to identify which plug goes with its connector. If it is hooked up backwards and turned on, it is very bad for your game. I have heard this has happening to others, and I wish to see it avoided.

[Jimjaycee]

If I was you, I'd also consider replacing the "Big Blue" capacitor on the Power Brick too.

[Jimjaycee]

Replace the bridge rectifier and retest.

[patluvsvettes]

@Jimjaycee That's called the "Sense Mod" right? I've heard of that, but haven't done it to my AR/II board yet. I did replace the two resistors (R29 and R30) with higher watt resistors. I plan to get a used AR/II on eBay and rebuild it, keeping my working board as a back-up. My soldering skills are pretty good.

[patluvsvettes]

I got the power supply repair kit from Bob Roberts today, and happy to report that my Atari Star Wars is back up and running. Thanks for posting this video. It helped me out a lot. All of the voltages on my power supply are testing OK on my multimeter, but the voltage on the AR/II board is reading 6V at the +SENSE test point instead of 5V. I tried turning it down using the voltage adjustment pot on the AR/II but it didn't do anything. The game's been on 2 hours and everything seems fine.

[patluvsvettes]

I've got an Atari AC Power Supply Repair Kit on order from Bob Roberts. Hopefully that will fix my problem. I have labelled J6 and J9 on the AR II board and the plugs so that I don't accidentally mix them up and blow my game PCB. Hope to have my repair kit by this weekend and have this thing back up and running. I'll post an update and let you know. Thanks for all your help!

[patluvsvettes]

I have a rebuild kit on order. Hopefully that will fix it.

[patluvsvettes]

Thanks a million for posting this video! I'm trying to troubleshoot a dead Atari Star Wars arcade game and this video helped me out tremendously. I tested my voltages with a multimeter and I'm showing no voltage at all for pins 1-3 (which should be showing 10.5VDC). All of the other pins have the correct voltages. Do you have any idea why there would be no voltage on pins 1-3?. I've heard that the bridge rectifier might be bad. Should I try to replace it or could it be something else?