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@DedyPhlincke I teach climbing, and well.. i have actually had someone come to me, saying they have learned how to belay from youtube, im in no doubt they learned from "expert"village, they're technique is terrible and really quite dangerous..
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Never ever do it like this.
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never leave the belaying hand up where he had it before the "fall", always keep it down by your waist, and keep it tight, keep pulling it through
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0:58 = (
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@tisakson lol true
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@tisakson haha super cross loaded..."always pay attention to your climber." Forgot to add occasional make sure you aren't cross loaded.
For the beginners reading, cross loading is when a caribiner becomes loaded on the narrow points...reason it is bad is a caribiner on average on the long ends supports roughly 24kN of force where on the narrow sides only 8kN of force...that makes the system quite a bit weaker.
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Hmmm...cross loaded belay biner and improper hand technique...nice instructional video!!
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Was his krab loaded across the gate all the way through the video, and when he was catching the fall?
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This is incredibly poor belay technique. You should always lock off in between taking in slack. This is even more important when not using a locking assist belay device such as a gri-gri.
it should always be in the locked position even when the climber is not falling, if your not taking up slack or giving out slack your hand needs to be at your side.
ClimberDude7 3 years ago 14
Expert village should be shut down! Every video I have seen from them has been either dangerous or gives out stupid advice.
rossdabossda2k6 2 years ago 5