The Art of Rock Climbing: Anchor Critiques on Seneca Rock

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
36,857
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on Aug 29, 2009

"Summit or Grave!" . . .Ecstasy Jr. (5.4, PG) / Greenwall (5.7,G) Combination to the Summit. Here we are at the top of the fourth pitch anchor system. Anchor commentary by Jeti Ninja Climber Ian Jacobus and Jeti in training Lou Palumbo. Shout out to John Long. Traditional Rock Climbing. Seneca Rock, West Virginia. Rock Climbing. Technical aspects of rock climbing.

Category:

Entertainment

Tags:

License:

Standard YouTube License

  • likes, 13 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (louismpalumbo1972)

  • FYI: Put in a situation many of us may have been. Running out of gear, not sure how far is the summit (on sighting the climb,1st time in Seneca). Do I keep going, knowing my gear is very low, or do I stop where I am and bulid an anchor; w the minimal gear I have, and what the rock affords for placement. After hearing about responses from the video I feel this information is vital and valuable to viewers.  Thank You.

Top Comments

  • The angles are way too large to be considered safe.  Terrible.

  • The question was "what should be done?" The answer is... "dont climb with this guy" One of the WORST anchors I have ever seen!

see all

All Comments (28)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Notice how the experienced guy is standing behind the "anchor". I wouldn't be quite so mellow if I cleaned the pitch and came face to face with that monstrosity. Good God.

  • solo would be safer

  • Booo

  • @mrluscious1 Yeah really, unless they have 2 chunks of rope on the first one it is possible for that whole part to fail if one pops especially the lower one pops. Then the other one is like 90 degrees and the lower one is way over that. I wouldn't even do that and I have climbed for only a few years

  • I logged in just to dislike this. This is how people die. WTG

  • Seriously that is the absolute shittiest anchor i'v ever seen!!!

  • @MADMANOR91 Don't climb with this guy or ask for advice from him - that would fail an assessment and their critique should have started with "whaooo.... lets start again"

  • @louismpalumbo1972 Except when he hurts himself or someone else... Or worse - he might teach someone this set up!!!!

  • @agun17 As it is... yes - But if he clipped directly too it then it could help prevent him from lifting off the ground if the leader fell... thus meaning that there is less chance of him being lifted above the belay stance, and therefore reducing the chance of the belay stance failing. Basically though, this reminds me of why I first thought climbing was complicated - this guy needs to keep things a lot simpler and get some more qualified tuition

  • Isn't that purple anchor down there kind of useless?

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more