CLIMBING TOOLS: Vector angles in your anchor

Vector angles what are they? I wish that I knew because that would mean that I am smarter then I am now. I have read a great deal about them recently and really do not have a clue other then they are a force of nature and exist within our anchor systems ( in most cases. Despite the fact that 90% of you clip bolts and have very little need to worry about these forces it never hurts to learn a little more. The other 10% of you who will be climbing on so called traditional routes and building anchors out of nuts, cams, pitons and the such will need a reasonable understanding of these forces to maximize your safety.
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[fortinbras47]

The way it all works out is that F_bolt = F_load / (2 * cos (theta / 2) ) where theta is the angle of the V part of the sling.... (you want theta to be as small as possible! ..... if theta = 0, then it's perfectly equalized cause cos(0) = 1). At 120 degrees, cos(60) = 1/2, so your setup isn't reducing force on each bolt at all..... and at over 120 degrees, the amount of force on the bolt is actually higher than the load! (I'm a dorky math guy, just learning how to climb.)

[mikebarter387]

you are a dorky math guy, thanks

[sethcat99]

this is also the same dynamic for sling loading for crane operators.

[mikebarter387]

hadn't thought about that but true enough. Certianly the exact same principal. Isn't there a NY crane operator that should have watched this vid several month sago?

The Mike

[mikebarter387]

Thanks Bro

I was just messing around with the anchors. Hoping that the point was not lost in the end.

[gar05189]

I´ve noticed that when you make the knot to make the anchors non extensive sometimes you use an overhand knot and sometimes you use a figure 8; are both ok or is there a reason to choose one over the other? I´ve noticed that overhand knot is simpler to untie if you rub the knot against the wall.

[mikebarter387]

No it does not matter. If you have enough cord tye a 8 if it is getting tight tye a overhand

[jordanlt001]

Thanks for the instruction. I find your videos helpful.

[anaik1]

Hey Joe, the word your looking for is moment (as opposed to lever). We use it in aviation all of the time. Moment = weight * distance from CG.

Think of a diver on a diving board, if they stand over the base then the board stays flat, but the further they walk out to the edge the more the board flexes.

Love your videos!

[sytby]

At 2:21, the knot in the cordalette fetches up against the 'biner on the viewer's right, causing the strands of that leg to load unevenly.

[jahhmin]

Fantastic video. Thank you.

[skyerunner]

For anchors, the AMGA "guide" is ERNEST

Equalized

Redundant

No Extension

Solid (surrounding rock)

Timely

Self equalizing anchors therefore do not meet the "no extension" requirement unless you tie limiter knots, which eliminates the usefulness of the self equalization. The only situations where a sliding x or other self equalizing system will help is when there is a dramatic change in the direction of pull.

Get professional instruction if you want to do it right.

[243WW]

Mike, love your work mate! Heaps of good info. Keep them coming. Angles, and slinging = rigging. Some basic rigging for cranes will explain the angles and dangles as well...

[Rileymoto]

Hey i just wanted to know, What do you think is better: A self equalizing anchor or a static anchor! Thanks!