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Safely Removing a Microwave Oven's Control Panel

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Uploaded by on Jun 15, 2008

See http://www.microwavedisplay.com - This video (pardon the poor lighting) shows you how to safely remove your microwave oven's control panel assembly for repair or troubleshooting.

Whether you have a bad display, cooktop lights, stove top lights, work lights or night lights that don't work, or a dead controller, we can repair it NATIONWIDE and for only $39.95 in most cases.

We don't just swap circuit boards, we troubleshoot and repair to component level. We SAVE you money and implement our proprietary fixes, modifications, and upgrades to make your controller more robust than new.

We also repair storm damage, lightning damage, blackout damage, damage from voltage spikes and voltage surges, and also provide insurance estimates and failure analysis for use in cases of failure involving power companies, electric companies, or at trailer parks, R.V. parks, RV parks, recreational vehicle parks, campgrounds, (camp grounds), etc.

ALL BRANDS including Sharp, Dacor, General Electric (GE / G.E.), Viking, DCS, Amana, Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Magic Chef, Daewoo, Ewave, etc.

See our site for FREE safety, disassembly and do-it-yourself (DIY / D.I.Y.) troubleshooting TIPS, as well as links to free owner's manuals and free service manuals (repair manuals).

We're always happy to HELP YOU with your microwave trouble.

Please E-MAIL your technical questions to prototech@usa.net.

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Uploader Comments (MicrowaveDisplaycom)

  • I have a 25 m. old GE Spacemaker Microwave over, Model #: HVM 1540 DN 1 WW, under cabinet model. At first it would just stop working, I'd clear and restart, no problem. Then the fan started running every time I opened the door. Christmas morning nothing worked, the digital display was blank. This all happened within 4 days. What should I check first? Thank you.

  • @Ruah57 There are two versions of this model, so I would need to get a little more information from you. I'd be glad to help you, but technical inquiries are better handled via e-mail. Please send your post (above) to me at prototech@usa.net.

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All Comments (16)

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  • @ulujm A blown fuse is usually not a cause, but an effect.

    When the fuse blows a second or so after pressing "Start", then you probably have a shorted high voltage capacitor.

    Help links - read safety warnings first:

    gallawa . com / microtech/cap_test.html

    gallawa . com / microtech/diode.html

    (if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)

    gallawa . com / microtech/mag_test.html

    gallawa . com / microtech/xformer.html

    Exploded views & order parts here: tinyurl . com / gv383

  • @MicrowaveDisplaycom

    ok I put the new fuse and the power came back. but as soon I start microwaving, it just stop after 1s. it looks like the real reason is not the fuse. not sure what is the prfoblem

  • @ulujm It may have been a piece of a threaded post on the grille, which can crack due to heat, aging, inferior materials, etc.

  • @MicrowaveDisplaycom

    ok thanks. I found the fuse on the top of the control panel behind the grid.

    Before I started to remove screw on the side of this model and I hear something falling inside not sure what it was. any clue?

    thanks

  • @ulujm If this was not clear, e-mail me with your full model and symptoms.

  • @ulujm Remove spaces in the URLs to visit them.

  • @ulujm Do not confuse these with the hood T.C.O., which has thinner red and black wires connected. If it were bad, the vent fan would just be on all the time.

    There is a technical sheet hidden behind either the controls or thew grille, and it is very handy in helping you trouble shoot.

    If the fuse, cavity TCO, and magnetron TCO are good, then you may have an issue with the control circuit board, which can usually be repaired economically.

  • @ulujm To access this device for testing and possible replacement you will have to remove the oven from the wall and remove the outer cover.

    The installation instructions can be found here: kitchenaid . ca/assets/pdfs/literature/C893­5506.PDF

    Also, the thermostat (T.C.O.) on the magnetron may be open, which will make the oven dead. It has black wires attached.

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