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Soldering Tutorial

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Uploaded by on Jul 10, 2007

Little demonstration of expert soldering, to help people in DIY, for illuminated saber electronics, but not only. Shows the basics of the operation to achieve good soldering joints.

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Howto & Style

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Standard YouTube License

  • likes, 22 dislikes

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Uploader Comments (irvinplecter)

  • Your solder looks like a 63/37% eutectic tin/lead solder alloy. This solder melts at 183degC. A setting of 420 degrees is way too high. 300 deg C is a good starting point, you can then increase the temperature until you get satisfactory solder joints. If you cannot achieve a good solder joint with tin/lead solder by 350deg C then your soldering iron tip/iron probably need maintenance. Also, for this type of PCB pads you should ideally use a 1.6mm chisel tip, not a pencil point tip.

  • @FearTriX it's Sn62 soldering (62-36-2) with 2% of silver. The fusion temp is low however with what I'm soldering, I use a 200 µm tip, so to achieve the proper temp on the very end of the tip, iron has to be pushed for the temp. (What I do on a daily base isn't soldering on a breadboard like the one in the video).

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  • One last point that needs mentioning, the finished solder joint should not look 'bumpy and round' as you say. That is a defective solder joint as you cannot inspect the wetting of the solder on the pad. An accceptable solder join should have concave fillets aroung the component pin. It should look smooth and shiny with leaded solder, but it will not look shiny with lead free solder.

  • finely i see a good video about soldering, exualy the best i ever seen!! but only one thing, buy a third hand device so you don't get a disturbed joint between the wires

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All Comments (92)

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  • Learned a lot, thank You. Now Im going to replace some parts on my electric guitar. Hopefully Ill make it without damaging some parts :)

  • @TheJennetteFan : I have no idea what the log barel is for a soldering iron (?)

  • @perther3 : they are getting in contact all together with the parts to solder.

  • tnk u sa for ur tip

  • @2CR51 You can use Ballistol on the tip of your iron, when you are not going to be using it all the time. The propellant in Ballistol is FLAMIBLE though, don't apply it when the iron is hot. Ballistol also will clean the iron since it desolves lead. This also why it is so commonly used to clean firearms.

  • Thanks for the tip. My hobby is restoring tube radios.

  • @2CR51 (The acid is designed to attack the metal for proper soldering, so whatever you use as metal, it will be attacked including the tip itself. Smoother flux will solve your issue)

  • @2CR51 : no prob and always pleased to help. I understand now what your issue is. Since as a model builder you're using solder with copper and or silver in there, and and some "agressive" flux to ensure the right soaking of solder on the metal. The flux you use is definitely what is causing the quick oxidizing. Even if it doens't have the same performances, try a more "gentle" flux, like collophane or even some "no clean" flux, something not too acid.

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