Climbing Tools: Crevasse self Rescue. Garda hitch

PART TWO: Paul uses the Garda hitch as a second ascender. This knot is tricky but effective if used correctly. Like always you should really get this wired at home or in a climbing gym because it does take practice. When your in a hole on some icefield it is not the time to be figuring things out.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• climbing
• self
• rescue
• mike
• barter
• banff
• canada
• crevasse
• mountaineering

[annulus1]

For multi tasking just use your ATC rigged in guide mode that you already have along with you for belaying. Unless you carry a clunky grigri alpine climbing or still prefer the good ol hip belay.

[mikebarter387]

@annulus1 I agree however still does not hurt to know how to do this.

[F1X0R121]

I've used my Gri-gri like that. If you're going to use the garda like that, wouldn't screwgates be a good idea?

[mikebarter387]

@F1X0R121 see the above. The screw gates prevent the biners from binding properly

[muhamedg14]

hahah, mike your soooo clumbsy, but your my favorite. Hey do u think you could do something for a beginer mountaneer, what would i need, so the camming devices, rope of cours, etc. And what would the basic rope nots be for a mountaneer. I am a rockclimber but only climbed indoors so i know some of the stuff. If you cant do it, do you know a link where i can see these things being done, but someone that explains it as wel as you. thanks mate

[mikebarter387]

@muhamedg14 I will see what I can do. This week I am starting a series called Mikes Mail where I do video answers to questions just like yours.

[jamesbluecruzer1]

why wouldnt you just use two locking beaners? I feel like that would be safer than watching the placement of the rope every five seconds.

[boraboy4ever]

sorry that was pretty funny on the helmet bit. thanks f garda hitch demo.

[tuliro620]

I agree with mike. Screw gates are better. But please, when you do a demo wear a helmet. You wouldn't want to bump your head on the rock and forget what you are saying.

[tuliro620]

I agree, mikebarter387 is right. Screw gates are better.

[annulus1]

Lummers70 - If I dropped my atc (which I never take off the biner) I would reach into my toobox and pull out the trusty ol prussik, autoblock, or klemheist. When in need I have belayed using a munter or rescued using the same hitch with a mule. Strictly speaking alpine climbing of course. If caving or aid climbing then a different ascension technique. What you keep in your toolbox is your business. Hope you know how to ascend a rope without a biner.

[Lummers70]

@annulus1

Thinking like that is what will get you into problems. These techniques are potential life savers fro when all is going wrong and the 'ATC' is not available.......how many ATC's have been dropped???!!!

[osolaser]

usar casco es incomodo, golpearce en la roca, lo es aun mas!!!

[banffmedia]

@biodiezel Not really. How do you keep it in place and not lose your gain?

[biodiezel]

u should use a italien knot insted

[08yannch]

@mikebarter387 i have actually tried this with screw gate biners and it works but i just had one set the other way around so the gates were not touching. * this was with D biners and i would guess it wouldn't work 2 well on oval screw gates