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Video #12, "Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Motor - Generator

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Uploaded by on May 19, 2009

A continuation of stator arm demonstrations seen in Videos #9, 10, and 11, this video goes into further details and explanations regarding magnet interactions used to create rotational thrust and completes the section regarding use of a stationary stator.

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Science & Technology

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Uploader Comments (TheRickoff)

  • What about if you put a small (something with as little friction as possible like a ball barring setup or magnetic flux area by magnets on the structural plate) bump on the structural plates as the wheel spins that would lower the wheel that split second then raise it back up after the bump thereby losing the sticky point ?

  • @ggibney0856 Moving the wheel the required amount would require considerably more force than moving just the stator magnet, so is not advisable. Moving the stator up and down, as was shown demonstrated by hand in video #3, could be very effective, and is a method I will be soon be experimenting with. A counterweight, draped over a pulley above the stator, could limit the force required to lift the stator to a half ounce or less, and a cam and lever arrangement could be used for lift and drop.

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  • When shopping for your fasteners, take a small magnet with you and test them to be certain they are non-magnetic. If shopping online, specify that you want non-magnetic fasteners. If you can't find them in stainless, brass or nylon machine screws will do just fine.

  • I think that after watching video #13 you will understand why a shielded stator is not needed, and would only detract from my the potential torque and rpm that are possible in my MOSTAT (moving stator) methods. To put it simply, my MOSTAT methods use all encountered forces of attraction and repulsion to the utmost advantage. Shielding my stator magnet from any of these forces of advantage would produce losses, rather than gains. You may not understand this yet, but you will in time. :)

  • Yes, of course stainless steel has steel in it, and some stainless steel is magnetic. Most ss fasteners, though, are made of 304 alloy, which is high in nickel content, and the nickel prevents the steel crystals from aligning in magnetic attraction. I can place any of my ss fasteners directly against the strong HD magnet, and there is no attraction whatever.

  • All stainless steels with the exception of austenitic stainless steels are magnetic. Google it if you do not believe me. All austenitic grades have very low magnetic permeabilities and hence show almost no response to a magnet when in the annealed condition.

  • Stainless steel is still steel. Evidently, you haven't learned anything yet because stainless steel nuts are magnetic because they have steel in them. Hence the name, stainless steel. The James Roney stator allows for torque, where as non-shielded stators do not. Mylows wonderful device is a great example. It works wonderfully, but there's no torque. The Roney stator opens a new door of possibilities. Thank you for your efforts, nonetheless.

  • I should aslo point out that, for anyone interested in the stator lifting method discussed in this video, that the strong repulsive force that causes the braking effect can be utilized to provide all, or nearly all of the lifting force that would be required, with no anti-rotational resistance from friction or drag.

  • Incidentally, since you mentioned the bearings, this was a junked wheel - rusted, bent, and the bearings are wicked bad. You probably can't hear it during the videos, but the bearings sound like they have sand in them as they rotate, and that's no joke. I don't mind, though, as the wheel was free and I figure that if I can get this one working then a new one will do ever that much better.

  • In between groups, the stator magnet will not need to move at all, so zero resistance there. Since all horizontal movement of the stator is achieved with relative ease, certainly you must see how the strong attraction and repulsion forces involved will be able to accomplish what is required. I will also be adding a heavy flywheel (3/4" birch plywood ring) to the opposite side of the wheel to add a hefty flywheel effect that will provide forward inertia sufficient to counteract any drag effect.

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