Dereks boiler project 3

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Uploaded by on Apr 30, 2009

Applying the refractory lining.

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Uploader Comments (dillond666)

  • Not to harp on the refractory material, but some stuff my friends have used on gas forges is ITC-100, it's a refractory that runs upwards of 2900 degrees farenheit (about the melting point of mild steel) and reflects upwards of 99% of the incident infrared radiation - GREATLY improves thermal efficiency. You can slap a thin layer on top of other refractories no problem! Following these vids closely, very nice work!

  • @Orionblade2003

    Thanks for the info, I'll look into that stuff.

    Best wishes.

  • Nice work so far, and much the kind of project I hope to build some day soon...

    While you've already started with the refractory, it may be worth saying that refractory cement will end up conducting a fair bit of heat. May try mixing some pearlite/vermiculite into the mix and should help keep the heat where you want it, ie inside the burner. With heat/over time the pearlite will decompose, but you'll still be left with a "foam" of refractory.

  • Thanks SteveBB30, The refractory I am using is for lining industrial boilers and does contain lightweight stuff like vermiculite. I made a 6" square tile of it 1/2" thick and you can hold it on your hand and blast the oxy/propane torch onto the other side without burning yourself. The stuff gets red hot but seems to reflect most of the heat. Scientific test huh? You do make a valid point though.

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  • Where the 'secondary' is, won't that cool the temps down if you are bringing fresh air into it there? Also, if you are burning wood, you will have to burn it at high enough temps to keep the creosote gaseous. I used to have a wood stove long ago made from an old fuel oil stove with a large circular double wall heat exchanger up top. Over time, because I was trying to control how fast I burnt the wood, creosote built up and I had no good way to get at it to clean it out. Just a thought.

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