It has been brought to my attention that the procedure is the same for all years of KLR 600 and 650 (thank you fixer).
Need a Clymer manual? Check out http://www.clymer.com/ or http://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals
Tools you'll need:
8mm socket with small ratchet (I know I said 7 mm in the video, that's wrong. It's 8 mm)
17mm wrench
17mm socket with torque wrench capable of 17 ft*lbs
You do not need to remove any body work to change the oil.
Before changing the oil, warm up the engine and oil. You don't need to drag race it around for miles and miles, just either let it idle for 5 minutes or ride it around the yard (if your wife doesn't mind) or around the block. The drain plug might be warm, the oil will be warm to hot; plan accordingly. You might also want to let the bike sit a few minutes so the oil can drain down from the top end.
The oil drain (17mm) is on the bottom of the bike, a little left of center, aft of the end of the skid plate (assuming stock skid). It is accessible from the right side of the bike. There should be some sort of gasket / washer on the drain plug. If you have a magnetic drain plug, clean the metal bits off of there.
Now would be a good time to adjust the balancer chain ("doohickey") (every other oil change should be good): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=941C79DgTco
The torque for the drain plug is 17 ft*lbs.
*2008 model: oil drain plug torque is 21 ft*lbs.
The oil filter, oil filler, and oil view window are all on the right side of the lower end unit of the engine. There are 2 bolts (8 mm) holding the oil filter cap on. It takes a bit to get the filter cap off (the o-ring holds it in). Twist it so that you can get your finger on the back side of the bolt holes, pull out evenly. When you put the new filter in, make sure there is a rubber grommet on each end. Use a little bit of oil to lube the grommets, then take the metal tube and put it in the new filter. When you put the new filter with the metal tube back in the bike, put the small end towards the center of the bike (small end in first).
The oil filler cap is just aft of the oil filter housing. It is black (or should be?). This also has an o-ring.
After you fill the bike with 2.5 liters (2.2 if you don't replace the filter) of oil, start it up; look for leaks at the drain plug and the oil filter housing, shut it off. Wait a while, then tip the bike upright and look in the oil view window. The surface of the oil should go just out of view.
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I love you tube and thanks to guys like you/in this Video it makes things a lot easier. Thank you I didn't hear how much oil to put in but I am going by the window you showed. Once again thank you...Awesome
young35rider 1 month ago
@young35rider Thanks! Glad to hear I helped.
BTW, 2.5 liters of oil.
ghotioutofh2o 1 month ago
how about water p. gasket and seals
shynex2 2 months ago in playlist More videos from ghotioutofh2o
@shynex2 It's recorded, but I forgot my camera where I recorded it (different state). It will be up after New Year's.
ghotioutofh2o 2 months ago
Would you say that the semi-synthetic 15 : 50 would be the best chioce for the oil?
SecretHeritage 5 months ago
@SecretHeritage I haven't used synthetic (semi or full) in my KLR. I like regular oil. You have the weight right: either 15W-50 or 20W-50.
ghotioutofh2o 5 months ago