Alert icon
We're changing our privacy policy. This stuff matters.  Learn more  Dismiss

KLR 650 Oil Change

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
43,907
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on May 14, 2008

It has been brought to my attention that the procedure is the same for all years of KLR 600 and 650 (thank you fixer).

Need a Clymer manual? Check out http://www.clymer.com/ or http://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals

Tools you'll need:
8mm socket with small ratchet (I know I said 7 mm in the video, that's wrong. It's 8 mm)
17mm wrench
17mm socket with torque wrench capable of 17 ft*lbs

You do not need to remove any body work to change the oil.

Before changing the oil, warm up the engine and oil. You don't need to drag race it around for miles and miles, just either let it idle for 5 minutes or ride it around the yard (if your wife doesn't mind) or around the block. The drain plug might be warm, the oil will be warm to hot; plan accordingly. You might also want to let the bike sit a few minutes so the oil can drain down from the top end.

The oil drain (17mm) is on the bottom of the bike, a little left of center, aft of the end of the skid plate (assuming stock skid). It is accessible from the right side of the bike. There should be some sort of gasket / washer on the drain plug. If you have a magnetic drain plug, clean the metal bits off of there.
Now would be a good time to adjust the balancer chain ("doohickey") (every other oil change should be good): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=941C79DgTco
The torque for the drain plug is 17 ft*lbs.
*2008 model: oil drain plug torque is 21 ft*lbs.

The oil filter, oil filler, and oil view window are all on the right side of the lower end unit of the engine. There are 2 bolts (8 mm) holding the oil filter cap on. It takes a bit to get the filter cap off (the o-ring holds it in). Twist it so that you can get your finger on the back side of the bolt holes, pull out evenly. When you put the new filter in, make sure there is a rubber grommet on each end. Use a little bit of oil to lube the grommets, then take the metal tube and put it in the new filter. When you put the new filter with the metal tube back in the bike, put the small end towards the center of the bike (small end in first).

The oil filler cap is just aft of the oil filter housing. It is black (or should be?). This also has an o-ring.

After you fill the bike with 2.5 liters (2.2 if you don't replace the filter) of oil, start it up; look for leaks at the drain plug and the oil filter housing, shut it off. Wait a while, then tip the bike upright and look in the oil view window. The surface of the oil should go just out of view.


Please rate and leave comments!


For a wealth of KLR 650 information, please visit KLR650.NET - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Resource!
If you decide to join, please use my referral link: http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php?referrerid=17746

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

License:

Standard YouTube License

  • likes, 9 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (ghotioutofh2o)

  • I love you tube and thanks to guys like you/in this Video it makes things a lot easier. Thank you I didn't hear how much oil to put in but I am going by the window you showed. Once again thank you...Awesome

  • @young35rider Thanks! Glad to hear I helped.

    BTW, 2.5 liters of oil.

  • how about water p. gasket and seals

  • @shynex2 It's recorded, but I forgot my camera where I recorded it (different state). It will be up after New Year's.

  • Would you say that the semi-synthetic 15 : 50 would be the best chioce for the oil?

  • @SecretHeritage I haven't used synthetic (semi or full) in my KLR. I like regular oil. You have the weight right: either 15W-50 or 20W-50.

see all

All Comments (105)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • @ducatiman77 Ive heard of a few people discarding the metal tube that fits thru the oil filter, on accident,and running the bike with out it,I would never recommend any one do this,It would suck to have a blown engine over a simple mistake as this.

  • Just changed the oil & filter on my A13, have done it several times over the years, but watched your video as a refresher. Never ceases to amaze me how difficult filter cover is to remove. You struggle & stuggle - then it comes free - like breaking a vacuum? Though seeing using the sidestand cuts down on the mess, I thought I could defy the law of gravity & use a stand. Result: oil running down the side of the engine after removing the cover & even more after removing the filter USE SIDESTAND!

  • This process is exactly the same for the 250 as well.

  • I've got a '05 KLR and go to your videos for a quick reference. Even better than the manual. Great stuff Guy!

View all Comments »
Loading...
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more