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Installing an Exterior Door

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Uploaded by on Feb 1, 2007

Exterior door installation is a job you can tackle with these tips from http://go.askthebuilder.com/NewsletterSignupNow Tim Carter. From flashing to putting in shims, Tim walks you through all the steps for installing an exterior door in your home.

This is the second video in a 3 part series. The other videos are:
Video 1 = Exterior Door Removal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbcxpd41LN8

Video 3 = Exterior Door Insulation http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMmmjJT38Ps

Sign up NOW for Tim's FREE weekly newsletter at: http://go.askthebuilder.com/NewsletterSignupNow

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Howto & Style

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Uploader Comments (AsktheBuilder)

  • Hi Tim. So I assume the flashing replaces the use of silicone underneath the door in cases when flashing is not being used, right? thanks

  • @xmartanx You still need to caulk to prevent air leakage. The caulk should NOT be used to stop leaks. That's the job of a flashing.

  • @AsktheBuilder That's right. Of course. Thank you. Also, if exterior wall is thicker than the door jamb and you need to recess the door to be flushed with the interior, how far do you run the flashing underneath? Thanks Tim

  • @xmartanx It's time for one of my 15-minute consults. Can't reply to all questions here. Go to my AsktheBuilder website, the dot com one, and you'll find it in my Store.

  • Tim,

    I plam on putting a new exterior doorsoon. The problem I have is the one you mention in this video. That is , the previous home owner put in harwood flooring and now we cannot have anything in front of the door because it will not open.

    How do I deal with this when I measure for my new door? Do I make the opening bigger ? What is your advice? Thank you for great videos

    John.

  • @68softtop You take off the interior trim of the existing door to see what your rough opening is. You MAY have to trim the header 3/4 inch which should allow you to install a 3/4 piece of treated lumber under the door to get the BOTTOM of the door threshold level with the TOP of your hardwood flooring. Good luck.

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  • How can I replace a front door with 2 Sidelights with one sidelights. Can I buy another sidelight or how would I fill it in?

  • Great video. I'm currently replacing just the exterior door slab. Door is the same dimensions as exsisting but in much better shape. I had to move the hinges on the door to match the exsisting location of the hinges on the jamb. Door is plumb and my gaps looks good, but when you go to close the door, it wants to spring open just before it hits jamb. Does this sound like a bent hinge? It wasn't doing this with exsisting door, only when I changed it. I did chisel the door itself so hinge is flush.

  • Most home-owner will have issues with adjusting the level of the door to the floor and also the installation of flashings. Great video Tim!

  • I thought that the last piece of flashing should of went down first, so the water wont hit the seam and go under. This is contrary to flashing installation theory. Or I may misunderstand?

  • I would think folks having trouble installing a door would watch this for some troubleshooting tips. Installing a door NEVER goes perfectly as this job shows. It would be nice to see what to do if the door was not plumb. Or dealing with an unlevel sill.

  • Glad to see that someone actually pays due attention to "waterproofing" (rather sealing for water intrusion) the sill. I am going even farther and installing a custombuilt galvanized flashing underneath the sticky flashing. Doors should actually last "a lifetime" and why cheat on maybe one of the most important areas.

    However, I would not nail the jamb, but rather predrill the it and screw it into place. Make life easier down the road and only takes a few minutes extra.

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