Climbing - First Ascent of Optimus Prime (E5 6b), Ilkley
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Uploaded by climbingsean on May 31, 2008
Back in October I made the first ascent of one of the last major unclimbed lines in Hangingstone Quarry (aka Ilkley Quarry). Practised on a top-rope for the previous two sessions, I was having real trouble with the second crux above the gear and found it hard to work it cleanly on a shunt. But it all went well on the lead, so no major drama thankfully! The gear is a hand-placed lost arrow (knifeblade peg), an RP behind a flake, and two OK-looking micro-cams; however, given my past love-hate relationship with micro-cams I was less than enthusiastic to take a fall on them! Thanks to Maria and Dave for taking pictures, Steve and Stefan for acting as cameramen, and last but not least my trusty belayer Will.
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Uploader Comments (climbingsean)
Top Comments
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Well done!!!!!...i love the bird (3:45) coming out of its hole to have a look, he he
3 years ago 6
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I got a major fright on your celebration... thought you were going back over the lip...
3 years ago 3
All Comments (24)
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Beautiful route dude! We put up a first ascent in Squamish, Canada a few years ago, also called Optimus Prime (5.10c, 7p) on the Squaw, just beside the chief. Hope I get to climb your route one day!
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3:35...that pigeon wants you dead.
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haha its still funny ''wh... wha...... whats it all about lads?'' poor bird.
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@SeniorKako hahah yeah, its like ''WHAT A HELL ARE YOU DOING!!! LMAO GET WINGS NOOB''
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Looks like a brilliant route, quite long aswell for grit
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awesome!
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Nice! really nice. How long have you been practising before you decided to lead it?
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yeay, i love the bird too, matches perfect with the music! Looks the bird wants to know whats klinkering around on the rock :-)
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awsome! looks like a mint route. how tall are you? it looks reachy. really nice lead, well done :)
willspurplemonkeys 2 years ago
I'm only 5'9", but have a +2" ape index. The big move from the undercut to the small ledge was hard for me, I need to get my feet very high up, just have my fingertips on the undercut, and when I reach the ledge I can only just get my fingertips on it! So it;d be much easier for someone taller, and anyone shorter would have to go further left - I purposefully didn't use the left hand crack, so I guess a lot of people would find that move virtually impossible.
climbingsean 2 years ago
whats the name of that song?
Great effort, congrats!
evanescence1984 2 years ago
It's Echelon, by 30 Seconds to Mars.
climbingsean 2 years ago