BMW E36 M3 driving down Hemlock Valley Road in BC, Canada

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Uploaded by on Jul 3, 2009

This video is of me driving this road. This is not a promotional video for BMW or for me, its for the road. Its awesome. I didn't go very fast as its a public road and we did see some deer on the way up.

Ive got the geo-cords for the start of the road(49.307888988650795,-121.91682815551758). The video is taken from half way up going down to the start. If you want to go further up the road, it turns into Dirt so I suggest a Mitsubishi for that :)
I apologize for the audio as I had my kids hotwheels in the back seat and the camera lens cap kept hitting the tripod base.

Anyways, If you ever have the chance to drive the road I suggest it.

Take care, drive safe.

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Uploader Comments (zhollett)

  • Most E36 owners install a Signature Motoring performance intake kit for around 9HP gain. Cost is a mere $150 or so, best value per HP gain in the E36 line.

    Install time if only about 30-45 minutes in most applications. I have one in my 94 325i cabrio.

    Crazy nice sound. Most performance guys install a Signature Motoring performance intake kit for around 9HP gain in the E30.

    Install time is about 30 min, maybe 45 for two left hands. LOL

  • @BMWpower4me

    I ended up putting on an AFE intake, Shark Injector and Underdrive Pulleys. And some Bilsteins. :)

  • @zhollett Too bad, see all those big gaps around the AFE intake to the rest of the engine bay?? Right? You are probably losing power in most driving conditions by sucking up hot air (which lacks the oxgygen and combustion power of cold air). Well, your experience is a cautionary tale for others.

  • @BMWpower4me **You are wrong** My aFe intake came with a heat shield, it workes perfectly and seals the intake from the engine bay area, including a seal across the top which fits the hood perfectly.. It only pulls air from behind the headlight, and that cavity because i also did a fog light delete. The aFe system completely separates the intake air from the engine bay, I dont know where you are seeing that it doesn't, possibly other versions do that but this one is great.

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  • I was going about the same speed coming down the mountain tonight. Except I was in a 93 civic and there was snow for at least a 1/4 of the way down. The road is awesome though.

  • P.S. Good quality ignition, larger injectors, maybe going for a carbon air box... I believe that with all this 300 is reasonable number... BTW, ///M Engines are meant to be N/A. (Would consider a compressor in the case of a 2.5 or a 2.8L standard engine)...

  • My plan was to take the engine apart, and start with porting, polishing and lowering of the cylinder head. Second, I was planning on installing performance crankshafts, valve springs... Besides the mods you've done, I plan on a race exhaust system (stainless steel manifold, de-cat straight exhaust piping...). Lightening and balancing of the flywheel would certainly help gain some throttle response (faster rev gain), but would also affect the torque (I'm ready to sacrifice it) [...] :)

  • Well as I have the US Spec one, What suggestions would you make for me trying to attain the same HP Goal? Ive done the Software, Cold Air Intake and UnderDrive Pulleys. How are you going to push it to 300? Forced Air? Right now it Dyno'd around 260hp @ the crank and 190@ the wheels (Torque numbers are roughly the same)

  • Like I said, it's rare here. That's what makes it desirable. I'm not saying that someone would buy it over an Euro spec, but I'm saying you can't find them for sale... The thing is, I see the US Spec engine as a playground... It's got unlimited tuning potentials... :) Well, I know that US and Euro spec engines have totally different base, but, my guess is that it would be easier to tune a 3.2L engine, than a 2.8L one... (My target is 300 HP, just between the 3.0 and 3.2 Euro spec ///M engines)

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