TR Cutting School -Architectural Reconstruction
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Uploaded by trpattern on Aug 14, 2010
(Architectural Reconstruction)
When creating 3D fashion shapes you could like any fashion student, try to figure out an applique technique to attach your shape to your garment. There would however be a need to maintain a good sense of balance and overall proportion to your design.
The TR Architectural Reconstruction technique is integrated within the garment's pattern instead of using a patchwork concept whilst also retaining the garment's original comfort of wear. The main consideration here is deciding how you are going to eliminate your design's joining seams and integrate them within your blocks pattern.
I recommend starting your first experiment by using a cube shape.
Firstly, construct 3D boxes using paper and masking tape. Once you have constructed your paper cubes, lay them out on your garment as you wish, using masking tape to keep them in place, all the while making sure that you haven't distorted the original garment's shape during this process.
Next you must think about integrating your boxes within your block pattern using style lines, whilst eliminating joining seams as much as possible to give an overall optimal visual effect. It is best to end up with as few pattern pieces as possible.
Once you have finished drawing your style lines you can cut away the wrong side/bodice block fabric.
Whilst dismantling/flattening your pattern you may find more places where seams can be disposed of or even merged together.
Lastly once you are reconstructing your new pattern, pay close attention when sewing together the corners of your cubes, and press all seams open. It is not necessary to iron the right side of your garment's fabric.
Shingo Sato
www.trpattern.com
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