Hydrogen at home (Mud problem revealed)#29

This is a follow-up to my last video, it seems that a poor grade of stainless steel is the reason for my problems, and this video proves it. I also post an interesting question that someone out there might be able to answer for me.

Category:

Science & Technology

Tags:

• Hydrogen
• HHO
• electrolyser
• cell
• neutral
• plate
• amp's
• electrolyte
• Perspex
• home
• Waterpower
• tap
• DIY
• booster
• fuel
• electric

[moreoverunity]

What BRAND of NAOH are you using?

When I do my vid the next few days I will post it back here for you to check out, I plan on doing some serious tests on this topic as I have a lot of questions myself and will make a great topic for my first UBOOB video. :)

I have both 316L and 304 SS and cheap/good NAOH and good quality KOH to test with

There are some comments about Higher voltages causing the brown sludge, not sure about that, but something else to test! STay tuned!

[markj30]

I use a good quality sodium hydroxide, the tap water will get dirty after many hours of operation but it is not to blame for this particular problem, for proof of that watch the second half of video #22. I believe that using high-voltage only draws out more gunk if the stainless steel is of a poor grade such as in this case.

[CarbideTip]

I think the answer to your question is surface area. Neutral plates keep the cell a manageable size. 6"x6" opposed to 3'x3'.

[markj30]

This is true, I'm curious about electrolyte concentration. The real question is what's the bigger factor, the voltage between each plate, the surface area, spacings, or a combination of them all. Are we better off using neutral plates and dealing with the problem of insulating each side of the neutral plate holes. Or using a daisy chain series set up, with six separate dry cells, to bring down the voltage and use no neutral plates. Hope I'm makes sense, it's a bit difficult to put into words.

[h2opower]

You need to start saving money and use Meyer's 8xa circuit that needs no salts in the water of any kind. It works on even pure distilled water as you can see in my video's. Learn the new way as Dr. Faraday's method is old school as that prior state of the art is too costly and you just don't get anything from it.

[bhelpurii]

316 is non magnetic, maybe a magnet can be used while shopping for ss.

[mrbillr]

The mud is caused by tap water. Someone referred to it as "iron bloom". I too was creating mud and switched to KOH and still had the problem. I went to distilled water and the mud has not returned. The only color I get is from the dirty plates from running tap water, since I did not clean them up when I switched to distilled water. It is amazing how clean it runs on distilled water.

Don't EVER use tap water unless you just enjoy cleaning and changing your water.

[moreoverunity]

No tap water distilled only, dump that tap water to start and never go back.

Also IMHO its NAOH NOT THE STEEL, it forms the brown crud all on its own, im fairly convinced of that.. esp the cheaper grades like drain cleaners Im going to test some "pure" grade NAOH will post a vid on that one.

I have been using a good quality KOH with ZERO sludge problems. When i did the drain cleaner NAOH with 316L and distilled, I got the brown crud.

IMHO its the NAOH I plan on proving it too

[markj30]

so far the mud does not seem to be making much of a difference.

[markj30]

I dont normally use zippos for this purpose, it was just for this one test.

[markj30]

I use 14 votes for all of my tests at this stage. I understand what you're saying but in this particular situation using a poor grade of stainless steel is to blame for my mud problem. Other reasons such as voltage, dirty plates, and using tap water, can be easily changed, but the plates come first. Thanks for your input.