TR Cutting School- flared volume
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Published on Aug 3, 2010
There are two ways of adding flare to your TR adapted block. Firstly you could add flared triangular pattern pieces directly to your 3D toile. These need to be accurately pinned in place. Make sure that just the tips of these triangles touch your TR style lines, else your pattern pieces will not lay flat once you start to dismantle them.
Alternatively you could create a new asymmetrical TR shape from any standard bodice block and add triangular pieces directly onto your flat pattern, whilst you are drafting it, shaping it where and by how much you so desire.
The priority in both cases is that eventually these added sections flatten down completely. Once you have checked that this is the case, stitch down each added piece and press/iron the seams to integrate these sections into the newly created shape. The block is now ready for more newly drawn TR style lines.
Whilst drawing these lines, re-consider the block's dart apex points, the tips of the inserted flared triangles, as well as which side seams you might want to dispose of and which areas of the block's sides you may want to draw through. You can draw onto the inserted triangular pieces, as these new divisions will become integrated into new shapes once you dismantle your toile.
Whilst dismantling your newly adapted 3D design you may find you have overlapping pattern pieces that are longer than your final fashion fabric width. In this case I recommend using the triangles side seams as join seams, therefore visually minimizing the stitched seam within the flared volume.
Also don't forget to make a note your toile's grain lines and I also suggest that you cut out all flared volumes on the bias, for an optimal draping effect.
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