Climbing Tools: Ropes Part 2

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I assume that this is mostly used by folks who are thinking about buying their first rope. Despite the fact that there can be as many as a dozen ropes or more in your local shop most of them will not apply to your needs. So here is a slight break down for your first rope.
If you are a mountaineer then weight is always a issue. No I am not saying your a fat pig and should be watching how many calories you consume. I am talking about the weight of the rope. For most glacier travel situations I will get the skinniest rope that I can. In fact I will often use a half rope for ski touring or something like that peak you see in the background at the opening of this vid. The other important thing is dry coating. This prevents water from getting absorbed by the nylon. Old frayed ropes can take on 10 pounds of water in a worse case scenario.
Rock climbers can save their money as it is of no value out on the crags and cliffs. As your first rope don't go buying anything to thin. Your looking for a rope in the 10.2 to 10.5 mm range. By the time you wear this rope out you are going to have a pretty good idea what you need as your next rope.
Single Rope: This is by far the most common rope used. It is what it sounds like. Designed to be used alone. Can withstand a number of fall factor 2 falls without failure. Used in all types of climbing.
Half/dual ropes: Far less common but most often used on routes that wander or where reduced energy on gear may make the difference between life and death. Often carried cause you can make longer rappels. The two ropes still weigh more then a single but is a good compromise when full length raps are required.
Twin Ropes: Same as above but both ropes must be clipped to the gear. The favorite rope of ice climbers.
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The Mike

Hi
I am now booking guiding work. I have just been a stay at home Dad
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Climbing Tools Series
http://youtube.com/mikebarter387

• Category

  Education

[pikeflyfisherman]

I'd recommend anyone who has bought a rope(s) to remove the labels off the end as they can get caught up when you are pulling the rope after abseiling off a route and knot itself to the ab anchor. Keeping them on for identification is a bit pointless as if you don't know what kind of rope it is then you shouldn't really be using it.

[mikebarter387]

Re: Comment on your video: Climbing Tools: Ropes Part 2

Hey Mike,

On what basis is it bad advice ? Anyone and there granny should know the difference in mm on a rope, especially between a single at 10 mm and a double at 8.5 mm, and even the difference between 8.5 mm half and a 7.5 mm twin.

The tab on the end of the rope can and does cause problems when pulling ropes after an abseil, I've seen evidence of it happening (on more than one occasion).

[mikebarter387]

Your exaggerating a bit on the rope getting stuck by the tab at the end. Certainly less common now that chains and ring rangers are the norm for anchors. It wasn't even that big of a deal when we used one inch tape. The tab at the end is good for not just you but others using the rope also. It helps me track my ropes as I usually have several working ropes at any one time. The information shows not just size but manufacturer and it can remind you if you want to buy that rope again or not.

[mikebarter387]

In the end there really is no reason to remove that tag. If you cant pull that rope through the slings you really do deserve to die on that stance you find yourself on. I don't think everybody can tell these days my specialized ice ropes are single but so thin they feel like 1/2 ropes. Think your making a mountain out of a mole hill.

[GrassRocketFilms]

So there are two circles joining each other (symbol) for twin ropes Mike. Not an infinity symbol. Also this video is all over the place.

[mikebarter387]

Nobody asked you to watch it.

[mikebarter387]

You moved to the USA from canada!! I suggest finding a sunny window to store that rope in, close to bleach or car batteries. You should now get another 20 years use out of that old rope. If you don't follow that sage advice then cut it up for haltershanks.

[Tucker Webb]

HAHAHHAHAHAA, THE SEX/ROPE COMPARISON WAS JUST AMAZING. LOVE YOU MAN

[pikeflyfisherman]

Its not a case of not being able to pull the rope, more the fact that it can hitch itself to the anchor, especially an anchor made of slings. And by saying that someone deserves to die because they can't pull a rope is a bit OTT would you not say ?

[pikeflyfisherman]

Well that's where me an you differ, we don't bolt the anchors on our trad routes here in Scotland, nor on our winter routes, its all our own gear which is placed for protection and anchors.

[VentureTact]

You look like and sound like Dalton Humphrey from the Red Green show.

[tambourello]

I found this and other of your vids quite helpful. Thanks!

[Polishsebbe]

Close your pocket or else a snow monster will take your stuff :D