NRAC - Sport Climbing Route Rebolting with Glue-in Anchors

*Disclaimer* THIS IS NOT AN INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!!
Hang out with Kenny Parker as he rebolts climbing route: Bubbas at Arapiles at the New River Gorge in West Virginia. Kenny replaces a pin with a glue in bolt. The rebolting is part of continuous work by the New River Alliance of Climbers to maintain excellent climbing access in the New River Gorge.
http://www.newriverclimbing.net/

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• nrac
• glue in bolts
• sport climbing
• hilti

[nmonteith]

I enjoyed clipping your bolts Kenny! Regarding recessing - you don't need to recess these twisted eye bolts - the amount of glue bond in a shaft that featured would make it bomber. In 'normal' ringbolts with a single shaft you would need to recess them. We have had lots of un-recessed glue-ins loosen up in Australia from sideways falls. It's a common problem and only reveals itself in the long term. We have had glue-ins like this for about 20 years in Australia and are beginning to see problems.

[waterstoneoutdoors]

@nmonteith Thanks for the support. It's good to talk to people with experience using this stuff. I am pretty sold on the value of glue ins. They are more involved to place in some ways and make the process of re-bolting steep routes a little troublesome, but overall the benefits outweigh all this. Thanks again for the input.

[thisisjosh89]

As a frequent climber to the New, and Endless wall, many thanks for your work, Kenny, and Waterstone. Y'all are great. Best gear shop within a 6 hour drive of DC.

Question: When placing glue-ins, I've heard one perspective that says you should drill a notch along with the main hole to allow the eye of the bolt to be sunk into the rock. It supposedly lowers the sheer force significantly.

Obviously y'all know what you're doing- so what's your thought on that?

[waterstoneoutdoors]

@thisisjosh89 Yes that is the case that you should pay attention to the lateral forces on the eye of the bolt and so if necessary create a notch for it. I usually look at how it sits against the rock and judge by that.. If it sits against the rock and has some feature which kind of holds it in place I will go with that. I try to avoid any additional drilling/chipping associated with the lip of the bolt hole but it is necessary sometimes.

Thanks for the interest and support.

[varminthunter805]

How can I get a job doing this? I would love to go around and rebolt routes

[fwh1]

Dispensing nozzle too short, resin bolt not countersunk and a cursory cleaning of the hole. Hilti recommend brushing and blowing holes at least 3 times before injecting glue.

There should be sufficient annulus around the bolt to allow free rotation of the bolt as it is inserted into the glue. A hammer to finish the job. Wtf?

[agolaymonday]

Never seen a bolt put in before, a nice clear video.

Still going to stick to trad as sports not big in the uk

[niguana22]

how the hell do you even climb something like that??

[callmeJorn]

Ha, ha, funny guy. "It'll be there for centuries". ha ha, I like his sense of humor...

[Crazyapeclimbing]

Thats debatable