Uploaded by etrailertv on Mar 11, 2010
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-FAQ-Changing-Brakes.aspx
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
All right today we are going to show you a typical break inspection. Basically what we are going to do is take off the brake hub here and we are going to inspect the breaks, the linings, the springs, and the display cylinder inside. First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next, is taking out the locking pin. There is either a cotter pin that goes in the center here but once you get that lock washer off you have to go ahead and just take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. First thing you want to check for is grease on the linings, and sure enough we have got grease all over these linings here. Also on this side here and probably smeared around over to the other side as you can tell.
Other than that you want to look for leakage around the seals here. See usually we would grab that and pull it down to the side but there is nothing there so we are in good shape. The springs are nice and tight. There is nothing broke there. The only thing is it is just dusty and it has got a little grease everywhere but it is not bad. But since the pads are contaminated now we are pretty much going to replace it. And looking at our back side of our hub here, you can tell how the grease is coming out the back side here which can be thrown off do to centrifugal force. So that tells us right there that the seal went bad and after a while the grease came out of one of the lower shoots. Go ahead and disconnect our brake line. Okay. And then this is all one piece going to the backing plate so we really can not twist this off. You knock off this tab right here and then you can pull the line out. And then we can undo it from the back of the backing plate. And sometimes you can pull these with off pliers, but these are so rusted that we can just go ahead and just knock it around until we can get it to come off. There we go.
To bleed hydraulic brakes on a trailer. First off you want to top off your master cylinder, with appropriate fluid. To pump the fluid from the master cylinder out, there is a couple of different ways of doing it. Sometimes it will have the emergency lever the safety chain will pull. Okay what you can do is unbolt the plate that is holds the lever in place and then use that lever to actuate the master cylinder and force the fluid through. Some of them, you are going to have to just manually activate up here. Where the ball goes, just manually activate it. Pull it in and out. Or like on this model here there might be a little lever underneath here that you could use. What I am going to do, just take off the cover off of our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay here we are just going to take a rubber hose and just slide it onto the bleeder itself. So then, all right we will put our line into a clear container. The reason why we are using a clear container is that when we pump the fluid, we know that until we get no bubbles coming out of the bottom then we know we have got pure fluid in there. No air. We will start on the wheel cylinder that is closest to the T where it splits off between the two. We have four wheel cylinders. We will do the back ones first. When you get clear fluid running out first through your bleeder valve, you can just go ahead and pull it back and hold it there and then shut off the bleeder valve.
Category:
Tags:
- etrailer.com
- trailer brakes
- brakes
- trailer
- replacement
- bleeder valve
- master cylinder
- changing
- change brakes
- replacing brakes
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