Part 2 of 2; recessed window flashing in a 2" recessed wall condition, using Corner Flash GS 106 A pieces only at the corners. Visit www.tlslabs.com for more information.
Thanks for the answers. Yup, I'm here on the Windward side :-) That partly explains why I have gypsum board with the paper peeling off. Prior owner had makai side casement windows put in with flat sills. I have to re-frame the wall to make the opening bigger. Then put in flashing (none there now) and then a sloped sill over the flashing. Any thoughts on the best way to attach the sill? I understand it is a different trade. I can only think of construction adhesive to avoid making any holes.
Next the penetration issue: We know that later trades will penetrate our flashing. In CA we see lath fasteners for stucco, and siding contractors apply hard board siding. Avoid applying fasteners in the corners. Keep fasteners to a minimum. Keep fasteners perpendicular to the substrate.
Kailua Keith- Hawaii? I graduated from UH Manoa and High school on the North Shore. :-) Cheers!
We used tape to temporarily hold up the flashing. Basically we created a little diaper under the window. After the sealant sets up.. the tape may be removed. The flashing pulled upwards creates the inside termination for the pan. If you wanted to rely upon sealant to create your inside termination, that will work too. Some people want the extra protection of pulling the flashing upwards on the inside.
1. Could you explain what was done to the inside bottom? You applied sealant to the bottom and 6" up the sides. Then it looked like he applied masking tape over that. Why?
2. The video ends before we can see what is put over the sloped sill that was created. There was a gentle slope. Do you put siding on that near flat surface, or a 1"x6" piece of lumber to allow water to run off. In either case, how do you attach these without perforating the flashing membrane?
@kailuakeith
Aloha Kailua Keith!
Send me some pics of your condition. Send to Gene@tlslabs.com
I will be happy to weigh in on methods and materials.
Gene
TLSLabs 3 months ago
Thanks for the answers. Yup, I'm here on the Windward side :-) That partly explains why I have gypsum board with the paper peeling off. Prior owner had makai side casement windows put in with flat sills. I have to re-frame the wall to make the opening bigger. Then put in flashing (none there now) and then a sloped sill over the flashing. Any thoughts on the best way to attach the sill? I understand it is a different trade. I can only think of construction adhesive to avoid making any holes.
kailuakeith 3 months ago
@kailuakeith (2 of 2)
Next the penetration issue: We know that later trades will penetrate our flashing. In CA we see lath fasteners for stucco, and siding contractors apply hard board siding. Avoid applying fasteners in the corners. Keep fasteners to a minimum. Keep fasteners perpendicular to the substrate.
Kailua Keith- Hawaii? I graduated from UH Manoa and High school on the North Shore. :-) Cheers!
TLSLabs 3 months ago
@kailuakeith (1 of 2)
We used tape to temporarily hold up the flashing. Basically we created a little diaper under the window. After the sealant sets up.. the tape may be removed. The flashing pulled upwards creates the inside termination for the pan. If you wanted to rely upon sealant to create your inside termination, that will work too. Some people want the extra protection of pulling the flashing upwards on the inside.
TLSLabs 3 months ago
To TLS labs:
1. Could you explain what was done to the inside bottom? You applied sealant to the bottom and 6" up the sides. Then it looked like he applied masking tape over that. Why?
2. The video ends before we can see what is put over the sloped sill that was created. There was a gentle slope. Do you put siding on that near flat surface, or a 1"x6" piece of lumber to allow water to run off. In either case, how do you attach these without perforating the flashing membrane?
kailuakeith 4 months ago