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Can Stirling engine, wood frame

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Uploaded by on Mar 8, 2010

This is basically a test bed for a larger can Stirling engine I'm working on. It still has some bugs but overall works pretty well. The cylinder is a 16 oz. energy drink can, tuna can water jacket, tuna can hot end shield, paint can lid flywheel with magnet balancer weight, alcohol flame.

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Uploader Comments (approtechie)

  • Hi.Thanks for your reply. Great help!!! But I have some doubts: 1. How can I check if the thermo is working? I can do some specific test? 2. The top tube coming out of the water jacket must be dipped in water bottle, or can I leave out of the water? (check the output of water on this could indicate that the mechanism worked, or not?) 3. The process does not begin immediately right? Only when there is a significant temperature (yes or no? Lol) What is the temperature, approximately? Thank you :)

  • @petkfg 1) you can put a few drops of food coloring in the water bottle to see the hot water rise up the tube. 2) the top tube MUST be in the water or the flow won't work. 3) the process takes a few minutes to get going. When the water boils you'll see bubbles come up the tube. Check out my video "Stirling engine, thermosyphon water cooling, lit by LED's" and you'll see the hot water entering the bottle and bubbles rise up the tube.

  • Hello! Would you could tell in practice and theory as developed in the cooling jacket? I think it is from the siphon effect, but I'm not really sure if it is. Could confirm? And if so, explain how to proceed to make one that works the same as yours? I'd like to know because I liked to include them in Stirling engines I have developed and it seems simpler than using a pump, ( and I do not have this pump). lol Thank you for your attention and sorry for the inconvenience.

  • @petkfg You're right, it does use a thermo-syphon effect. The tube coming from the top of the water jacket connects near the top of the bottle; the fube from the bottom of the bottle goes to the lower inlet of the water jacket. You have to make sure that the upper tube is rising along its whole length, with no low spots, or else the hot water won't be able to rise up the tube as easily. This works very well but you have to monitor the temperature of the water in the bottle and not let it get hot

  • Can you give to us some specs and some constructions tips to build a engine with this power.Like displacer height, piston and displacer stroke ... etc. I'm really impressed by your stirling engine!

  • @PyroEvil Thanks! Displacer cylinder is 2.75 in. diameter, 5.25 in. long, made from stainless steel water bottle. Displacer is 3 in. high and fills the diameter of the cylinder, has a stroke of 1.5 inches. Diaphragm has 2" diameter, .75 in. stroke. Large tuna can water jacket and heater shroud, smokestack is rolled up soda can metal, passive thermosyphon water cooling in this version. Cylinder is pressed and sealed onto wood base which has a groove cut to the right diameter. Hope this helps.

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  • how to make a stirling engine (you spiegarmii as you did) please do thanks

  • @approtechie thanks a lot ! I don't know if is because you find the good proportion between sizes or you contruction is perfectly done but I'm alway impressed how fast and strong is you engine when a see you video again and again.

  • @technology49 Correct. A standard displacer piston pushes the air back and forth PAST it, so it has to have an annular gap for the air to pass. In my case I'm using a moving steel wool regenerator instead of a displacer piston, which lightly brushes the sides of the cylinder, forcing all the air to pass THROUGH the wool.

  • The displacer mustnt be tight,right?

  • @nitrozil Yup, it's a beast alright :D

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