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Genie Garage Door Opener Working Properly

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Uploaded by on Jan 20, 2011

The Genie opener replaced a Wayne Dayton Junk opener

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Entertainment

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  • @TheGarageDoorGeek

    If you think that won't work, I've got to show you my uncle's paint shop door. That is, if he'll let me.

  • @NicksGarageDoor It's not the T-Rail that's the issue. It's the chain/belt moving around that close to the ceiling. With this install, you wouldn't be able to maintain the proper clearance.

  • @TheGarageDoorGeek

    If I remember correctly, LM T-rail is about the same size as the screw drive rail; I think it would have been fine.

    And sorry, but I just have to say this, that's what he said. LOL

  • @NicksGarageDoor Yeah, I can agree to that. A regular Genie AC screw and this door woulda been fine. It's just Excellerator's jumping right into high speed that causes this problem. There's no headroom, so either that or the Chamberlain/LM screwdrive are really the only option. Chain and belt are out due to clearance.

    I give the guy credit tho, he's got a mighty nice garage. I wish mine was that big! lol

  • @TheGarageDoorGeek

    What I meant was it was a bad combination from the start.

  • @NicksGarageDoor No, cutting that #8 resistor if I remember right, prevents the door from going into high speed mode. That would make it work properly.

  • @TheGarageDoorGeek

    I thought the exact same thing the first time I saw this video, but when you think about it, here are the elements:

    1. Flimsy Wayne-Dalton on low headroom track (recipe for disaster there itself).

    2. Genie Excellerator with high-speed opening cycle.

    3. Either improper header mounting or not enough room for conventional operator.

    Really with this setup, there is no avoiding disaster.

  • I see bad news right off the bat. The top of the door should not be impacting the rail like it does when it begins opening. It's due to Excellerator's high-speed mode. You need a proper door arm mounting bracket, not the one that Wayne-Dalton puts on their doors on the edge of the built-in strut. You should be able to mount the J bar to the door below that, so the opener isn't throwing the door around. Supposedly, there's a way to slow the opener down, but it's by cutting something off the board

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