From Matt Biolos' blog: OLD GUYS DROOL (OR, ME AT SMALL LOWERS ON MY PLANK). It takes a while to get used to seeing yourself surfing on video. Unless you surf for a living, most of us are usually in a state of "ignorance is bliss" when we picture in our heads what we think we are doing on a wave. A Slap in the face that says "You think you doing this (insert photo of Taylor Knox at 6' Lowers) But your "really doing this" (insert photo of yourself with arms, legs , head a feet all somewhat off) . The grim reaper of reality brings things back into focus when someone is on the beach with a Video camera.Although it is pretty easy to snap a good photo of almost anyone, Video doesn't lie. A harsh reminder of reality...and thus humility.
With all that said, one mediocre day last fall I ran down to Lowers with my shortest, fattest board.... A 5'10x 22.50" x 2.63" Plank. Its has a Simmons inspired outline of course, but beyond that its pretty different from that genre. Its got no concave, which makes it easier to roll the considerable width over on a rail, a healthy vee in the last 12" of the tail. This gives a hyper extended rail rocker and allows me to sink the tai and square up turns without sliding out off the bottom and top in waves up to stomach high. It has Quad, Future Controllers. On this one I cut a wing into the outline to add a bit more pivot. I am 6'1 and was about 215lbs at this time. Noah Alani Video, Grueller extrordinaire, was filming some of the super groms (who gratiously let me bully them off all the best waves) from the beach and Luke D was in the water with his Go Pro. Weaker than average, dribble was coming through fairly consistently and the board matched the conditions well.
What I dig about this board is although I could ride a more high performance board in surf like this (for sure on the sets) Is that even if I havn't surfed in a while or have a sore back, or its crowded and small etc. I can always catch waves, make plenty of speed and still do semi proper turns without sliding out. If nothing else, these few clips show how matching the right board to the conditions can turn a sloppy crowded sub par evening into a good time. Once you hit the 40's we need all the help we can get.
Lowers is a skatepark. It makes surfing any board easy...Well, except for the crowds that get redonk.
dirtdogg3000 6 months ago
the only person that can rival biolos' style is probably a.i. I mean look at those hacks!
efficientxkiller 11 months ago
@SHOOKSLAY ...so pretty much just a mini-simmons? actually he based this model distantly to a mini-simmons.
grif9696 11 months ago
just cut a longboard in half and ride that. -salt life.
SHOOKSLAY 1 year ago
I don't know what was worse, the pain of watching Matt rolling down the windows or the knowledge that I surf worse than that.
jarekaf02 1 year ago
Yeah because it's not like it's designed for a guy pushing 300 pounds or anything total fad
mazled 1 year ago
that shapes a fad. crap board
justWatchin97 1 year ago
sick
grif9696 1 year ago
love it
xXDollaXx 1 year ago