John's OCD (obsessive climbing disorder)

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Uploaded by on Dec 9, 2009

This is me climbing a route I recently created. It was shot with a digital camera so the quality is poor. The route is more just for fun than anything, something for me to work at for a while. It's ridiculously long and has a big dyno in the beginning. The route can basically be broken down into three sequences, or three different boulder problems. The first problem begins with a pretty straightforward sit start and traverses across to the squatting "launch" position. After the dyno is a big throw to a pretty crappy sloper and then a few tough roof moves over to an orange jug for a nice rest. The first sequence probably grades around V4 or V5. The second sequence starts from the jug and works diagonally across the roof to the opposite wall. A downward traverse leads you into a corner and through a few tricky moves into another squatting position at the edge of our 45 degree wall. The second sequence probably grades around V4. The third sequence starts here and moves across a sloping arete, up to another, a slap, a throw, and a finish with a tough layback into the finishing sloper hold. This sequence probably grades V5. I can successfully move through each of the three sequences, but I have yet to put them together for the send. The first ascent still awaits! Check out my site at http://johnsocd.webs.com/

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All Comments (8)

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  • DANG DAWG! YOUR BEASTIN'!!!

  • verry nice dude! where is this gym located I love the way the builder incorperated the setbacks most gyms all you have are slopes lips and over hangs but that wall is well diversed looks like you have a great place to train

  • Awesome. Especially the dyno. Well, and the ceiling traverse. And the other bits, like the conquer of the, what, 45 degree counter wall at the end? Damn,

  • Wow, this is amazing! Doesn't have a bloody ounce of fat on him!

  • Nice! Keep up the training, keep sharing and helping others. Good job! When is your next video?

  • Looks pretty intense. Where is this? Video doesn't show hold quality so it's hard to know...some of those look like pretty small pockets or pretty bad slopes but I can't tell from the distance. Looks fun though. Well done. Good luck on putting that all together!

  • Awesome John!! Now where's the video dedicated to the best sister ever? Nice echoing exertion noise at the dyno...

  • pretty impressive....

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