Rear Strut Removal And Installation

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Uploaded by on Sep 15, 2009

Tools needed proper fitting sockets and wrenches, Special Tool: Spring Compressor. This Im sure is not the best way to go about it, but it works if you don't have the proper tools like a bench and Vice (would have been nice). This is TRUE back yard mechanicin at its most down, dirty, and a lil ignorant.

I don't know why this shakes so much, it did not do this before I encoded it.. Sorry. GOOD LUCK!

  • likes, 8 dislikes

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Uploader Comments (Subfightr)

  • You guys first off forgot one of the first thing you need to do. Before u work on a car make sure its stable. These dumbass's openly admitted they didn't. Dont listen to them they have noooooooo ideas what's going on. Find professionals. Im no professional but I know enough not to listen too these retards. Struts aren't bad to replace just research and don't follow this. Plz don't you'll Fuck up your car and I love cars too much to let that happen. These guys are idiots

  • @ntietz91 I agree fuck these honest fucking fuckers just trying to help people out! Your car will explode into OVER 9,000 pieces! Both of these stupid pieces of shit later died that night working on that same car in a closed garage while the car was running. OMG I HATE THESE TWO GUYS SOOOOOOO much! I wish I knew where they were berried so I could dig them up and shit on their stupid shit asshole dumbass faces... World Peace!

  • anything that is 'loaded' really, so top small nuts and large top nut and the 2 splined ones at bottom of strut .

    Put a jack under where your friend suggested after your done and 'load' the suspension (take wheel back off), Its really just to settle everthing to where it would be naturally. Probably jus me bein petty !

    Same theory is actually important on motorbike front forks and wheel spindles otherwise you can get fork bind, pump the forks then tighten everythin never with wheel in the air.

  • @RAT1969 Thank you for the explanation. I will be sure and put your suggestion at the end and give you credit. (Bows) So the thing we are trying to prevent here is binding of the shock is that correct? (just trying to make it clear for the vid) Thanks again!

  • should really put all nuts and bolts on a few threads on reassembly THEN lower the car and fully tighten everything.

  • @RAT1969 Thank you for the suggestion RAT. Is that meant for everything or just the upper part in the trunk where the strut connects to the car? Seems like one would have a hard time tightening everything with the wheels on and car lowered no?

Top Comments

  • @sweetlikeADAM I... I.... i.. hmmm.. I don't know lol!! We don't have any impacts that fit the size of the sockets needed but we could have used a converter. (shrug) lol looks more back yard mechanic this way though. More cuss words and bloody knuckles required.

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All Comments (89)

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  • @Subfightr

    I know this is an older comment, but had to add this.

    We recently did a strut job on a rusty '98 Taurus. I ended op busting off the lower bolt on the driver's side, using a breaker bar. We had to drill it out (#8 hardened!). After drilling, we decided to use a #8 hardened bolt and nut on it.

    The right side went MUCH better! Used tons of heat on it and the bolt eventually came out without breaking. We also installed a new bolt & nut on that side.

  • i needed this, thanks for the info!!!!

  • Good stuff!

  • No NO guys you did it wrong, you need to drag the dodge neon to a high cliff and push the piece of shit car off it. Stop fixing these crappy cars!!

  • ive had spring compressors fail on me before so i found alternative ways of changing struts without compressors

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