Rock Climbing : How to Use the ATC Belay Device While Rock Climbing

To use the ATC belay device, or any belay device, you'll want to be sure and take the slack out of the rope for the climber. Safely use the ATC belay device while rock climbing with tips from an avid rock climbing enthusiast in this free video on rock climbing equipment.

Expert: Chris Sierzant
Contact: escaladegym.com/
Bio: Chris Sierzant has been an avid climbing enthusiast and expert for many years.
Filmmaker: Aaron Sinn

Series Description: Rock climbing takes a lot of practice in order to safely climb. Discover these rock-climbing tips from an avid rock-climbing enthusiast in this free video series on rock climbing.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• outdoors
• rock climbing
• rock walls
• bouldering
• figure 8 knots
• indoor climbing
• ATC belay devices
• climbing overhangs

[bonhampala]

WARNING!

Though he installed the device correctly, de belaying technique he is showing is WRONG AND DANGEROUS!

At times he secures the rope only with one finger and his thumb and never puts into into locking position. First of all, if you use a belay device, make sure that you go into locking position on EVERY MOVE. Also if the climber falls, you'd never be able to catch his fall while securing the rope only with two fingers!

[Dstrukt2k2]

The methods you are teaching here and in many of your other videos are extremely unsafe , incorrect, and dangerous! Please remove them immediately before somebody takes these techniques outside after watching one of your videos and KILLS SOMEBODY.

Please please please, this is not a matter of ego or who knows more than who, you are teaching techniques that are potentially fatal! I beg you, remove these videos before somebody suffers the consequences of your inexperience.

[jcb0trashmail]

Omg that´s so wrong! What the hack are you doing there?

[Northernblades]

@Dstrukt2k2 This was the method I learned almost 20 years ago. And as I said, a fast break hand saves lives. 10 years ago, I got my "formal" edjucation. where I learned better.

reality is I used this, for over 5 years before I learned better, and nobody died.

I know this is the argument the old people use "I been doing this for 60 years and nobody died" As for the comment about the munta hitch. If you mist the point, I guess my words are lost.

[Northernblades]

@Dstrukt2k2 I think you Should read more carefully, I know my writing does not leave me "well spoken" but what exactly do you think I am saying? And Why exactly do you argue with me? I related the practice to "People used to drive without seatbelt while drunk on unsalted unsanded roads." I would think that made my point clear.

What I said, was that for over 20 years, this "was" acceptable in many places.

And fast reflexes, and quick break hands, were all that kept people alive

[Dstrukt2k2]

@Northernblades And munter hitches are much safer to use than the way he's using this ATC. I'd sooner let someone who just learned how to tie a munter hitch belay me than let this guy belay me with an ATC, any day.

[Dstrukt2k2]

@Northernblades Try it then, go belay a leader on sport with an ATC or belay plate, hold your brake line with two fingers parallel to the lead line, get him to take a whipper and see what happens. Make my day. The only justification I could see for your statement that this technique has been used safely for years is that in those years nobody ever took a whipper while being belayed by someone who uses this technique. End of story.

You belay like this, you will get someone killed. Period.

[Northernblades]

@climbdavid

I heard it was common in asia as well, but then again, so is renting gear, to people with no experience or insctruction.

I just wish they would burry this crap. I know it is still happening. roughly 10% of the belay test perform, are to people who have learned, or continue to use this.

What is interesting is most people using this, are extremly resistant to change, often defiant. Often requireing more than gentle cloaxing to change. Not always, but often.

[climbdavid]

@Northernblades, not really many years ago. I was in St Louis in 2006/07 and this is how people at Upper Limits were teaching beginners apparently. In any case it's the way most people (all the Americans for that matter) were belaying.

[Northernblades]

@Dstrukt2k2 it may not get anyoen directly killed. this technique, has been used for many many many years, with limited failure rates.

newer technique have been proven safer, however it does not discout the reality that

single bolines, and munter hitches were use, ""safely, along with this belay technique, for the last. 100+ years. People used to drive without seatbelt while drunk on unsalted unsanded roads.

[Northernblades]

@adamfairweather1

This is the way it was taught many years so. And people who have not recieved any training or updating in the last 20 years continue to teach it in this fashion.

I Still encounter many older gentalmen who wish to belay liek this in my gym.

they liek to use the phrase "I have been climbing since you were but a twincle in your daddy's eye." I hate these @ssholes. Once you have them removed from the facility, they straiten up.

[Northernblades]

@climbdavid This technique is popular among the old an infirmed, along with the arogant and retarded.

this technique was phased out many years ago, about the same time we stopped using munter hitches, and figure 8 devices to belay (in gym)