Screen Printing White Ink / Dark Fabric The Right Way! Pt:2

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Uploaded by on Jan 19, 2011

This is a RELOAD of a two part video (in response to a few videos I have been seeing from amateurs, to supposed 'pros') regarding 'how to' print white on dark fabric correctly. Respect to all who KNOW how to do it right....or are open to learn!

I made the mistake of approving and responding to comments made by a couple who were ONLY intent on being repeatedly clueless and negative. Even in the face of FACTS!
Anyway.... I did not invent 'Print/flash/print'...(just the microtuners that make doing finer res whites possible)...I just wanted to 'up the chance' that sensible people will see someone showing YOU the right way. Not trying to teach or soothe those who do not want to know.

It is VITAL that you have the right ink...screen...accuracy and technique to do this properly. There is no substitute for these things and/or for the practice so that YOU can get good at it. The LAST thing you need, is somebody who is either ignorant or unclear about the correct method of doing this, passing that along to you! THEY cannot stand that I can do it right; with less; less costly and more accurate equipment! But again,it is a technique that is already well known among real screen printers who care about quality more than cutting corners. THAT is the only kind of printer I am or aim to help. Not only do I get awesome bright and stable whites...but my micro-tuners allow me to print/flash/print and carry a finer level of resolution that most shops would not even try to hold with white ink. Equipment accuracy ; right tools and techniques.

HERE is the proof! If you are wanting to get into SP....you are bound to be confused by all that is here on that. I came here to undo that confusion by telling and showing what the realities are. I've been in SP too long to do(or want to do) anything less than.

Please subscribe...thanks for watching!

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Uploader Comments (youteesdotnet)

  • I coat outside...inside...outside and leave off with last coat on the inside and then dry it with substrate(flat)side down. The gravity will cause emulsion to be heavier on that side as it dries. I never come back and recoat a dry screen. I use this same technique on everything up to 175 mesh and then I just hit each side once. Technique playus into it quite a bit also.

  • also...you will get a clearer stencil image if you have that extra thickness on the back(down or exposure side)of screen. This is because the image is being burned into emulstion that is not so close to the fibers supporting it, that the emulsion breaks away. This breakin away(to nearest fiber junctions)is called sawtoothing. with enough emulsion to create a good bridge across the screen fibers, then the emulsion can better hold the true edges of the image you are exposing to the screen.

  • it is a tech advantage to have the downside of your screen thiker with emulsion as that creates a secondary kind of 'off contact' in that it allows more ink to remain on the tee due to that space differential between the actual face if the emulsion, and the screen mesh itself. I coat and dry my screens in a standard way that causes this to happen. (See my screen coating in the 'all about....' series). Squeegee control has the most to do with ink load on tee.

  • what mesh count is the screen you are using?

  • @WaywardSonRising 00:19 in the video....156 mesh. Thanks for watching.

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All Comments (8)

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  • do you use multiple coats of emulsion on the substrate side? Seems everyone has a different opinion.

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