Placing Resin Bolts

How to place resin anchors with a resin capsule

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• bolting
• rock
• climbs

[zoolook8a]

This is a Fixe anchor being placed using the method approved for a Petzl anchor which has a 90deg shoulder. The Fixe anchor has a 45deg shoulder and should be countersunk into a hole drilled at a slight angle. In addition the hole should have a slight internal flare.

Full instructions are available on Fixe's website.

[mireeves10]

Unfortunately counter sinking holes is an extremely difficult thing to do, as is creating and internal flare, these bolts have been tested with this method to over the 8Kn standard, in a test bed they reached 15Kn before we broken the pull tester, and there was not deformational of the bolt.

I am just the messenger, and the technical expert on these thing seems to believe that they are fine.

Thanks anyway I'll pass on the info.

[cragtv]

DO NOT PLACE BOLTS LIKE THIS! (sorry for the caps, needed to get people's attention). It doesn't take any effort to crack the glue bond when a bolt is not countersunk. A fall from off to one side can be all it takes. We've spent considerable time and effort replacing bolts all over Australia which have been placed using this method. The ringbolt must be countersunk to the depth of the rod diameter (usually 10mm). This is not something that is difficult to do.

continued...

[TRE8815]

I wouldnt trust my life with thoose, I dont know anything about rock climbing, but I do know alot about rock bolts and drilling (Underground Miner) and yeah it looks sketchy, flimsy under weight, momentum, gravity what ever.

[fwh1]

An important distinction is that glass capsules DO NOT have sufficient volume to support a notched bolt, only resin dispensed from a foil pack etc will. When using resin systems, I take the pressure off the dispenser by releasing the catch, wipe the mixer nozzle then place the dispenser into an el cheapo home made holder with a carrier bag underneath held in place with an elastic band-very easy and resin stays where it should.

[fwh1]

I use their glue in bolts, sourced directly from the crew in Spain and do notch i.e countersink the ring however, which is easy to do, for the reasons that Zoolook 8a mentions. This issue also affected DMM Eco bolts back in the noughties.

[fwh1]

Great video and helpful info. Resin capsules have certain aspects to look out for i.e inspection of the contents with regards to viscosity.BTW Fixe did not gain their EN rating by notching their rings even though countersinking is apparent on their website.

[HosteDenis]

Such a shame to damage such a beautiful face. I understand there are bolts, but there are enough bolted routes already. Climb esthetically!

[SymAmineC8H11N]

can any of this drilling be done w/ a 18v rotary hammer drill??

[patchbobbins]

Anyone know where to get the resin capsules from in the UK? The petzl ones seem quite expensive...

[jurel21]

trad+pro=alive