Climbing Tools: Snow Anchor / T-Slot ice axe

This is a common anchor in the Canadian Rockies. However you have to have well consolidated snow. If there is any question at all beef up the anchor by burying more material. Crampons, probes or your grama if thats what it takes. The anchor has to be bombproof or it is not an anchor.

COMPANY OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES
BANFF CANADA
1 403 760 5731
ccmg@mountainguide.com
http://www.mountainguide.com

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• anchor
• youbanff
• climbing
• tslot
• rockies
• banff
• canada
• joe
• mckay
• paris
• hilton
• sexy
• hot
• girls

[zmoosy]

quick question, why at the end do you suggest burying the picket as a deadman instead of just pounding it in like you normally would a picket? Snow too soft or something? Maybe picket too small?

[mikebarter387]

@zmoosy Thats it exactly. Coastal snow packs work much better for pounding those puppies in. The Rockies you only get a few weeks towards the end of summer (sometimes) that you can do that. Works much better as a T-slot in my hood.

[flurryfilms]

Hey man I see all these vids on achors and pitons, but i never see you mention the RURP. Whats your opinion on them?

[mikebarter387]

@flurryfilms Here in canada I don't think you can even buy a rurp. If your climbing A5 walls then you already know more then meabout placing gear for hard aid. I don't have any opinion on them.

[19lurker99]

im confused, but thanx

[mikebarter387]

been like that most my life

[Sqish]

@flurryfilms You appreciate his balls?!?

[land4x4ever]

This video isnt at all helpful for anyone wishing to know how to use this technique, you have only given glimpses of what to do.

To anyone thinking of taking up winter mountaineering, go with someone who has experience, go on a course but please, dont watch this video and think you can make a snow anchor from your ice axe

[TheYeti63]

One video I would like to see is the process of retrieval and stowing a picket while following on steep terrain. I never know where to stow them so that their out of the way and not clanging around. Any suggestions?

[flurryfilms]

@mikebarter387 Oh I rarely use them I think I have used one once and that was iffy if i should have anyways. I am only 21 and been climbing for about 5 years my dads been climbing for 40 and he has never used one. Thanks for your imput I really appreciate the fact that you connect with your viewers. I also really appreciated your balls too, you challenge some of the a88holes on here and I must say behind a key board alot of people sure do seem tough. Well thanks again and stay safe.

[Nezza80]

This is also called a "deadmans" anchor. Some people have been known to just use sticks or logs.

dig a slit in some hard snow, then put ur sticks in. As long as it isn't a huge load (and you feel safe) you got urself a simple anchor.