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Mixed Climbing Avalanche Accident.m4v

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Uploaded by on Nov 11, 2011

WARNING: PROFANITY AND GRAPHIC IMAGES

This accident occurred on Nov 6th 2011 in South East Wyoming on a first ascent of a previously unclimbed route (it's been climbed in the summer - never as an ice climb as far as we know).

I am posting the video as a reminder of how challenging self-rescue is when things go wrong on an alpine climb. Our climb was only two miles from the road, but a broken ankle made it feel much farther. I hope this video helps other climbers make wise choices about how they manage risk.

Oh...and, yes, that is a reference to Touching the Void.

Enjoy,
Ed

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Uploader Comments (edwarren14)

  • Big props for keeping your shit together and getting yourselves out. Impressive.

    You made a great video out of it too. I like the Boney M but the scenes of you crawling through the snow reminded me more of Doug Scott on the Ogre. Apparently his nemesis song was Dr Hook's Silvia's Mother. Best wishes on the recovery.

  • @naropetak Thanks. I'll check out the referenced Scott saga and song.

  • How is the recovery going?

    

  • @wankel7 Its coming along slowly although I'm still holding out hope for a full recovery. Thanks for asking.

  • Ouch, you are one tough SOB Ed. Great job on the self rescue. Were you (Ed) receiving a fireman's belay on the rappel?

  • @SgtDeNomad I received a fireman's belay on the trickier first rappel, but not the second. Believe it or not I was pretty lucid throughout, although using my rappelling prussik probably wouldn't have been a bad idea. I was just motivated to get off that climb as quickly as possible and before any more snow broke loose.

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All Comments (121)

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  • All respect man that is horrible.

  • incredible

  • Wow, amazing video and amazing story.  Best wishes with the recovery!

  • So the Bony M song was stuck in Joe Simpsons head down in Peru. Watch "Touching the void." Great video. Way to hang in there trooper.

  • So happy you made it through alive. Good grief you are amazing!

  • This should have 10X the views it has. This is an incredible story. I'll be watching for it in the Reader's Digest :)

  • Props for continuing to film! that is a hard ordeal to overcome, Hope your recovery has been going well! What a battle, Great job getting out!

  • The song you used when dragging out is the same song used in "touching the Void" when a guys breaks his leg and has to crawl out!! way cool!

  • You are a couple of tuff mother fuckers! Way to keep it together.

  • no "Brown girl in the ring" for my youtube vids ever!; only on redtube haha

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