CLIMBING TOOLS: Building an Ice Anchor

This has a bunch of good advice on building an anchor. Paul (not his real name) covers the basics of how to do this. You have to have a good well thought out plan about how and where to build your anchor. Take care of your second and place the anchor out of falling ice and other hazards. Watch this video and add the info to what you already know. Remember that these guys do this for a living. The video was actually shot on a British army training session.COMPANY OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES
BANFF CANADA
1 403 760 5731
ccmg@mountainguide.com
http://www.mountainguide.com

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• anchor
• build
• ice
• climb
• banff
• british
• army
• joe
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[northcave]

Eeek i wouldn't be shouting safe until i was into a two screws for sure. Wouldn't do it on a single bit of trad gear and not on a screw either. Maybe I'm just a sissy :/

[mikebarter387]

@northcave Answered your own statement

[rh32793us]

V threads are definitely the way to go. A 22cm deep V thread in cold, hard ice will withstand over 2000 lbs of force. In crevasse rescue school we pull tested a V thread that was chopped down so it was only 3cm deep. It took 5 people shock loading the rope to make the 3cm deep V thread fail! I would rap off a 22cm V thread over an ice screw any day.

[mikebarter387]

@rh32793us Not really practical to build a V thread every time you build a station

[6kuku9]

Could you say a bit more about the way the first screw is tied off? - looks useful, but hard to see exactly how it's done - looks almost like the screw's been threaded through the end of a quickdraw?

[mikebarter387]

@6kuku9 That is exactly what he did. Back in the day it was very common to thread ice screws that way.

[Lummers70]

Great vid, down to earth and how it really works when your on a climb.

[elitejumproper]

why is everyone so critical of you? haha i think there are good videos! keep it up!

[mikebarter387]

I know all about the BD data. We have tested this extensively ourselves. Drop a 80 kilo weight on a daisy chain and lets compare results. BD os getting to be a bit like the Taser testing guys.

[mikebarter387]

If I built the thread I will just go off the single screw back up. You certianly are not wrong but time can be a real safety issue for some of the longer climbs here in the rockies. Other places in the world it is hard to find a cimb longer then a few pitches.

[mikebarter387]

Sorry I forgot mushrooms.