1995 F150 Erratic Idle Part 1
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One more thing. How do you properly set the ignition timing on this Ford of mine. The sticker under the hood says it is not adjustable, but it lies. It has a distributor that can be rotated in its socket, thus adjustable. It seems to run better when I advance the timing so far that it wont start after being shut off. Again, any help I am greatly for.
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Please help. I have a 93 Ford F-150/ 5.0. My symptoms are lac of power, Excessive fuel consumption, and engine rpm surging at high idle/cruising speeds. So far I have replaced O2 sensor, map sensor, EGR vacuum solenoid, and coolant temperature sensor. I still get a code 21, which I understand is "engine coolant temperature sensor out of self test range. Mind you I have cleared the codes and driven the truck 2-3 different times. Any tips will help. Thanks.
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Does anyone know why my 4.0 explorer would try to stall itself under load when it's 35 degrees or less then miraculously idle fine after turning key off then on, then repeat the cycle multiple times w/o throwing a CEL?
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this is the best video ive found to find and fix this problem. watched then walked out and did it on my 93 5.0 f 150...thanks man
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also..... crank it up and let it run for a lil bit, just enough to get the TPS warm/hot that way the break cleaner can penetrate in there. try to use a Q-tip to clean up and "scrub" the inside of it
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@SparkysAnswers i did this within the first week i bought the truck used round 2007 and its been fine since. i might need to clean it out again but if you cleaned it out like i did at least once every other year, depending on how much you drive, it should be more than enough. But, if cleaning the TPS didnt work, i was advised by a couple of mechanics i trust to get a new one. It all depends on the situation.
There are a lot of possibilities but a faulty IAC valve or leaking intake gaskets are common for those engines.
SparkysAnswers 1 month ago
I had a similar issue and in my case, i took the TPS off the throttle body, rinsed it with break cleaner, turned it over and let the break cleaner sit in there for a couple of mins, dumped it out and let it dry, threw it back on and it idles fine now.
USAFredneck 7 months ago
@USAFredneck I never thought of doing that and forgive me if I am a little skeptical but I would be very interested in how long and how well it works. I am sure other viewers would like updates as well.
SparkysAnswers 7 months ago
Excellent video I think - having read the other posts that my problem might be the IAC as the engine starts to choke and stall the moment that the throttle is applied.
mine is an intermiten problem and usually occurs when there is a big change in outside air temp -5 to say -15 degrees celcius. It runs crazy rich on these occasions - judging from the smell and what appears to be fuel leaking out the tail pipe. after warming up a bit I turn it off for a minute restart and usually good to go.
MrSeabass12345 1 year ago
@MrSeabass12345 A faulty IAC solenoid would likely cause the engine to stall or surge, when you let off the throttle completely. If you have fuel leaking out of the tailpipe, you have a ruptured diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator and a very dangerous condition. If it is water condensation and a rich exhaust smell, then that could be caused by a faulty fuel pressure regulator (pressure too high), a faulty coolant temperature sensor and other assorted problems.
SparkysAnswers 1 year ago
Nice vid - you actually did good. The 5.0 likes to surge high for no reason when the TPS is shot... happened to me and it fixed it. Low/stalling idle means IAC. Surge idle means TPS. Also note, if you have an automatic tranny you gotta remove the throttle valve lingage at the throttle body when you take the TB off. And while you have ti off clean it out, the backside included.
djhivesdotcom 1 year ago
@djhivesdotcom Thanks for the compliment and I am sure your added information will help others.
SparkysAnswers 1 year ago