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Crash Test of 2004 Volvo S40 and Volvo XC90

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Uploaded by on Jul 21, 2007

10 m.p.h bumper to bumper test

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  • 5000 to fix the s40 to hell with taking it to the dealer ill jump on the hood untill it goes down

  • Damn! $5000 for that? GG Volvo

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  • i wont let reapair the xc90, i dont see many damage. (srry for my bad english...)

  • @KingofComputing honestly, the only reason I'd advise conventional is in an engine like yours, because that goop is all that's keeping it from pissing oil all over itself. Seriously, pull your valve covers and you'll see the deposits, then keep in mind that those deposits are the only reason it's not leaking a quart a month.

    My 300 has 275,000 miles on it, it's been fed synthetic most of it's life, and it doesn't leak a drop. Runs fine. Can't go wrong with synthetic.

  • @KingofComputing Hahahaha, what? Synthetic isn't full of goo that clogs things up. It is better in every angle you care to look at. It lasts longer between changes(I go 5K between changes on my Ford 300), it maintains viscosity better, it keeps the engine clean, it's better at absorbing dirt than conventional, it flows better when cold, it's more resistant to chemical breakdown...

  • @TestECull why use synthetic? as engines get old you don't want to use synthetic, and once you use synthetic you can't go back to conventional so you're not doing anything for your car. my engine has been running fine on conventional oil for 42 years, if it's good enough for my ford 390 it's good enough for any new engine especially since they'll prob have more efficiency and less wear to start with.

  • @KingofComputing I'm using six quarts of Valvoline full synthetic oil and a Purloator oil filter each change. If I used conventional oil and a FRAM bomb I'd be able to cut the price down to just fifteen.

  • @TestECull around here in mass i can get an oil change with conventional oil, and a car wash for $22.95. although i agree you get the satisfaction of knowing you did it right for the same price.

  • @looncraz Oil change for my F150 is 25-35. Cheapest oil change joint: 75. Dealer? 100+.

    Spark plug change: 15 bucks DIY. 50-75 at a shop. Dealer's 120+.

    Clutch replacement: DIY 250 bucks, shop 1000+, dealer 1500+.

    Why? It's labor. I use the same parts the shops/dealer would, only since I'm putting them in, I don't have to pay 75 bucks an hour on top of parts and materials.

  • @TestECull It really isn't that bad, actually. The only addition in the Volvos compared to average is the timing belt ( and all that goes with that ).

    Though you need to be certain to get your parts anywhere but the dealers. The dealers tack on huge mark ups and make the parts priced more like that of a Mercedes, which is just stupid. In Europe Volvo is a very affordable car to own and maintain, that only changes here because of our greed-based system.

    FCPGroton is a wonderful web-site. :-)

  • @looncraz Even routing maintenance costs a fortune when you look at the DIY price. Labor charges suck.

  • @TestECull Yes, but that is, technically, cheating :-) I'd do the same thing, though.

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