Steve and the boys at Anvil Brand walk you through a start to finish process on the JHM anvils. If your in the market for a anvil this is important information for you to know. Check out the selection at www.anvilbrand.com
If I bought one of your anvils and hit it with an angle grinder could I end up with a round bick all polished up and every thing.Rather than a cast copy of an old worn out bick.What i want to know is will I find air pockets and weaken the bick.The shape of american bicks is why you find concave difficult to work.
you have to make your anvil not ring, the ringing is wasted energy. i have 2 london pattern anvils, a cast iron+ steel unbranded anvil and a few other anvil surfaces. most anvils do ring if not installed properly. Its the rebound you have to worry about. a good rebound means no or little wasted energy. all you have to do is secure your anvil properly on a good solid base. level and with the entire bottom surface in contact with the base.
As a note and not meaning to offend anyone, there is allot going on with austempered ductile iron that produces a metal in the end that is just as tough and hard as more costly steels. I have a TFS Smithy Special 400 lb anvil, it is made with an ADI and HRC test is about 56, it has excellent rebound. The one thing I think is causing allot of controversy is that the exact makeup of these ADI's is the secret. I can tell you this much these anvils are not straight out 80-55-06 ductile iron.
I just mailed you an ABANA link explaining the history and the quality of the Fisher Anvil, also look in the book "Anvils of America" you will find even more.
Ringing isn't that important is the issue depends on the make, My Peter Wright forged in 1851 at 400lbs rings like a son of a bitch, but the fisher doesn't, and they both work just fine, in fact I dare say the Casted Fisher wears a lot better and doesn't settle.
How do I find the brand name on my anvil?
thudson99 2 weeks ago
where are these made?
blacksmither1 9 months ago
If I bought one of your anvils and hit it with an angle grinder could I end up with a round bick all polished up and every thing.Rather than a cast copy of an old worn out bick.What i want to know is will I find air pockets and weaken the bick.The shape of american bicks is why you find concave difficult to work.
TheUanwat 10 months ago
Love my 163# English-made Hill Anvil
prokopto 1 year ago
you have to make your anvil not ring, the ringing is wasted energy. i have 2 london pattern anvils, a cast iron+ steel unbranded anvil and a few other anvil surfaces. most anvils do ring if not installed properly. Its the rebound you have to worry about. a good rebound means no or little wasted energy. all you have to do is secure your anvil properly on a good solid base. level and with the entire bottom surface in contact with the base.
aobbuddy 1 year ago
As a note and not meaning to offend anyone, there is allot going on with austempered ductile iron that produces a metal in the end that is just as tough and hard as more costly steels. I have a TFS Smithy Special 400 lb anvil, it is made with an ADI and HRC test is about 56, it has excellent rebound. The one thing I think is causing allot of controversy is that the exact makeup of these ADI's is the secret. I can tell you this much these anvils are not straight out 80-55-06 ductile iron.
graywoodforge 2 years ago
I just mailed you an ABANA link explaining the history and the quality of the Fisher Anvil, also look in the book "Anvils of America" you will find even more.
northforge 2 years ago
Well, fine if it ain't important to you it is to me and to many other people, and I dare to say Peddinghaus and Kohlswas are better
TechnicusJoe 2 years ago
Ringing isn't that important is the issue depends on the make, My Peter Wright forged in 1851 at 400lbs rings like a son of a bitch, but the fisher doesn't, and they both work just fine, in fact I dare say the Casted Fisher wears a lot better and doesn't settle.
northforge 2 years ago
Neither did I about your anvils. So, what is your point....
TechnicusJoe 2 years ago