Chevy small block help (from questions on my timing videos) PT1

*Please read*
Ok I've gotten some question in regards to my timing video, on timing, carbs, and some other stuff. So I made this video in regards to those questions. Mainly covering vacuum ports off of carbs, a little on timing, vacuum gauges, ect. . . S little bit of information on several things. Ok now the disclaimers ;) It was freezing out when I shot this vid, my shop lights won't work when it is below freezing unless I warm up the garage first, so it is a little dark. I tried not to let my teeth chatter, though my wife did call me half way through one video, we have like 6" of snow so far and it's only noonish so it is cold. Also if you don't like my advice don't follow it, I've got so much hate mail and mail telling me I'm wrong on my timing video it isn't funny. Oh yeah the breather thing I was talking about was a heat plate valve inside the breather, when it warmed up it opened letting in more air, it was connected my choke before I switched it from heat coil to manual on the old 305, I couldn't think of what it went to for a second. I was freezing and did go faster in this vid versus my timing one, any questions feel free to ask. Now a summary. Carbs, pcv valve, brake booster, and vac advance, really old cars maybot have brake booster, nor vac advance (some people do not use the vac advance, so three lines, the rest can be plugged up unless you have some smog control, or something "Special" you are adding to your engine. Jet screws, if unknown I've had luck at tightening them all the way in and turning them out 4 turns, then adjust from there too rich and your exhaust will smell like gas, too lean and you'll run rough and may have "pre ignition" sounds like backfiring or chatter. Fast idle usually the big screw, set it so your at 700-800 rpms for most small blocks, a little higher for short strokers like the 327. I think that covers the majority of it, I have an in depth vid on timing as well, this is just a follow up to soe other questions I've gotten.

Already!?! 1. Yes before you cut and plug a line you should know what it goes to, if you buy a carb with lines cut that you don't need you can to screw a tight fitting screw into the, it isn't pretty but it works. 2. Yes I know smoking is bad. 3. That is beer in the background, I am over 21.

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• Chevy
• small
• block
• carb
• timing
• idle
• help

[stevenspimpin420]

i have a 79 chevy van 350 small block that backfires but only after it heats up. it also hesitates to accelerate from a complete stop. i was going to change my heat control valve first i dont think it would be my ignition timing cuz it started backfiring when i never even messed with the distributor what you think

[ortamenx]

Is it over heating? Are you loosing coolant anywhere? Check the oil for water?Thermostat is a good place to start if it's running hot. I had an ignition module or coil, don't remember which, but one of those did caused the same symptoms for me a few years back, might have to break out a test light, or multimeter. Timing it could, a chain that is starting to slip, it'd get worse in hurry with that 99% of the time.

[squashmin]

hey...i have a 78 impala, 305 2 barrel....i live in MA, where old cars dont hafta pass emissions....i'd like to get rid of a bunch of the extra lines in my engine bay....

I would need to keep the PCV hose, the brake booster hose, and what else? What do i do with things like the EGR valve, just get a block-off plate? What about the vacuum canister? Don't want to take something out that's gonna give me problems. I know it's hard to say without seeing it, but any advice is greatly appreciated..

[ortamenx]

Depends what they have on that 305, you will generally need. PCV hose, Breather lines, unless you use an oil breather. Vac advance line on the dizzy, fuel line of course to the carb, breakbooster line, any tach, temp/rpm gauges, if you have them hooked up. If it an orginal CA manufactured may have a "smog pump" you can remove (plug the manifold with large bolts if you remove one may have to reset the curve and carb), plus all the AC can go. Remember to cap/tape off any open vac/electrical wires.

[caponeauto]

@pimpmasterpercy u need to hook it to the timed port ,its on the pass side metering block.front pass side on the side of carb next to sight plug.this will alow timing to advance as motor rpm trys to advance,hooking it to man vac port will bring vac advance in @ idle & when u give it gas/throt' u will drop timing as motor is trying to rev.CHECK total timing(w/timing light & motor &3000-4000 rpm)should b low 30s if high like 38 + it will ping or spark knock

[Boner1]

best carb ever!!!!

[ortamenx]

You can use your timing tab too, or just retime it and remark it. Install carb, if you didn't have an electric choke before and have one now you need to run a live wire to it. Hook up anything else, (brake booster, plug wires, pretty straight forward just reverse what you did to remove it. Biggest issue could be hood clearance if your gong to a high rise. If it is new setting the carb up can be a bit of a pain. pt 3

[ortamenx]

You'll need to do the intake gasket, when you have it off is a good time to pull the valve covers and do those gaskets. Pull everything off that is in the way, remove dizzy, scrape old gasket, put new gasket on, put new intake on, torque the bolts down. Put the dizzy back in, if you mark it really well, on firewall, cap, and gear, you don't even need to retime it if it runs fine now, just make sure everything is lined up just the same. pt 2

[ortamenx]

Probably not, sometimes you have a thicker gasket if you have an odd ball dizzy, but usually no problem. So the dizzy should be fine. pt 1

[turbo94f150]

i got a 86 Chevy silverado stock 305 and wanting to put a edelbrock carb and intake on it what all do i need? do i need to change the distributor also?