KLR 650 Steering Stem

Tools you'll need:
Torque wrench
27 mm socket
12 mm socket
Phillips screwdriver

Need a Clymer manual? Check out http://www.clymer.com/ or http://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals

Front Wheel Removal and Installation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqp65pSeXMc
Handlebars: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kki7S2RZBGQ
Front Fairing: (Coming Soon)

Remove the black cover on the front lower portion of the instrument cluster. There are two Phillips screws, one on each side. Label (if you want) the wiring connectors and their place on the bracket. Unplug them. Unscrew the speedo cable from the instrument cluster. There are two 10 mm (?) nuts holding the instrument cluster on. They are between the forks and the steering head.

Remove the brake caliber: there are two 6 mm allen head bolts holding it to the fork. Remove the reflector (12 mm). The nut is on the inside of the forks. Tie some wire to the radiator screen and to the brake caliper. Make sure that the unit is not being supported by the brake hose.

Loosen the clamp bolts (12 mm) (four on each side: two on top, two on the bottom) on the triple tree. Remove the forks by twisting and pulling down on them. Try not to run them into the ground when they come free.

Remove the steering stem nut (27 mm) loacted under where the handle bars crossed the center of the bike. There's a washer sitting under the nut. Don't lose it.

Remove the top bridge and the claw washer sitting under that. Use a spanner wrench / head nut wrench to loosen the newly expose nut. Support the bottom bridge while you remove the nut. Lower the bridge and stem out of the bike. There should be a bearing set sitting at the top of the steering head. Pull that out.

Clean all the parts. Inspect for damage, wear, discoloration, etc. Regrease.
DO NOT remove the races (what the bearings sit on inside the head) unless they need to be replaced!
Note the the bearing next the the bottom bridge should not slide off the shaft easily. Don't take that off unless you need to replace it. If any of the races or bearings need replacing, replace both sets at the same time. I didn't replace anything, so unfortunately (for you), it's not covered in the video. If I need to replace them next time, you'll probably be in luck.

After everything is nicely greased, insert the bottom bridge and shaft up from the bottom of the steering head. Put the top bearing back in place (narrow end down. You'll know if it's wrong) and screw the head nut back on. Seat the bearing by (lightly) tightening that nut (don't crank on it) and loosening it again. Put the claw washer back on, then the top bridge, the washer, and the bridge nut. Finger tight for now.

Put the guages back on (two 10 mm (?) bolts). Don't forget the rubber piece around the ignition switch.

Forks: the left side has the two holes for the brake caliper. The right fork doesn't (or at least shouldn't). Twist the forks as you slide them up. The top of the top bridge should be about 1 mm below the top of the fork tube (not flush). Twist so they point pretty much forward. Tighten all eight (top and bottom) clamp bolts (18 ft * lbs), then tighten the steering stem nut to 29 ft * lbs.

Use Patman's method of adjusting the steering to "not-too-tight and not-floppy": http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12764 , post number 7.



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Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• Kawasaki
• KLR
• 650
• KLR650
• Motorcycle
• Dirtbike
• Dirt
• Bike
• Steering
• Head
• Inspection

[shadow0imposter]

to tighten your steering spanner nut, follow your service manual! for example on a yamaha 08 r6s(thats what i have) you first tighten to a torque of 38 ft-lbs(this seats the bearings) then loosen and retighten to 10 ft-lbs as your final torque. always go by your service manual though!!! or ask your dealer!!!! any questions about yamahas just ask. i have access to alot of service manuals

[ghotioutofh2o]

@shadow0imposter For the KLR, that's not the way it's done; don't set the bearing tension just by a torque wrench! Per the Clymer (p. 254 of the 1987 - 2003 version)(paraphrased): to seat the bearings, tighten the the adjusting nut with a spanner, but don't use excessive force. Loosen the adjusting nut, then tighten so that play in any direction is eliminated. [Do some other stuff that isn't directly related to bearing tension.]

[shadow0imposter]

@ghotioutofh2o as i said follow your service manual. what i said was just an example. unless you know exactly what your doing you should always go by the service manual!(and i dont mean specifically you)

[ghotioutofh2o]

@shadow0imposter Ah, point taken. My apologies.

[ghotioutofh2o]

@shadow0imposter Tighten the stem nut to 29 ft*lbs, tighten the lower pinch bolts just enough to grip the forks. The bearing tension is set correctly when turning lock to lock is smooth and free. If it binds, it's too tight. Loosen it. If there's play or it's floppy, it's too loose, tighten it. Tighten the stem to 29 ft*lbs after adjusting tension and recheck for smoothness or binding. Tighten the lower pinch bolts to 18 ft*lbs when you're satisfied with the bearing tension.

[ghotioutofh2o]

@shadow0imposter Do NOT just set the adjusting nut to some torque and call it good.

[gixxerm]

LOL! DONT LOSE SHIT!!!!

[bklein453]

you make really great instructional videos. Thank you!!!!

[shadow0imposter]

@ghotioutofh2o its all good i should have specified :)

[shadow0imposter]

@kingdavewoody are your handlebars just shuddering or actually moving? sounds like a warped rotor

[kingdavewoody]

@ghotioutofh2o Cool, cheers buddy :)

[ghotioutofh2o]

@kingdavewoody I've never had that happen, so my guess, and this is just a shot in the dark without playing with your bike, is it might be a brake issue.