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etrailertv uploaded a new video
(3 days ago)
etrailer.com How to remove, inspect, and reinstall trailer hub bearings. An installer from etrailer.com shows you how to remove bearings from your ...
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etrailer.com How to remove, inspect, and reinstall trailer hub bearings. An installer from etrailer.com shows you how to remove bearings from your hub while minimizing potential damage to the bearings
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etrailertv uploaded a new video
(1 week ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
All right today we are going...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
All right today we are going to show you a typical break inspection. Basically what we are going to do is take off the brake hub here and we are going to inspect the breaks, the linings, the springs, and the display cylinder inside. First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next, is taking out the locking pin. There is either a cotter pin that goes in the center here but once you get that lock washer off you have to go ahead and just take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. First thing you want to check for is grease on the linings, and sure enough we have got grease all over these linings here. Also on this side here and probably smeared around over to the other side as you can tell.
Other than that you want to look for leakage around the seals here. See usually we would grab that and pull it down to the side but there is nothing there so we are in good shape. The springs are nice and tight. There is nothing broke there. The only thing is it is just dusty and it has got a little grease everywhere but it is not bad. But since the pads are contaminated now we are pretty much going to replace it. And looking at our back side of our hub here, you can tell how the grease is coming out the back side here which can be thrown off do to centrifugal force. So that tells us right there that the seal went bad and after a while the grease came out of one of the lower shoots. Go ahead and disconnect our brake line. Okay. And then this is all one piece going to the backing plate so we really can not twist this off. You knock off this tab right here and then you can pull the line out. And then we can undo it from the back of the backing plate. And sometimes you can pull these with off pliers, but these are so rusted that we can just go ahead and just knock it around until we can get it to come off. There we go.
And then the next thing we can do is unbolt the backing plate from axle with these four bolts right here. Next we have got to go ahead and take off the hose, we will reuse that. Since the whole thing twists we are just going to go ahead and take it off with the other half. And basically we will just go ahead and reverse the procedure of installing a new backing plate. All right we are going to want to go ahead and reinstall our old brake line. Just double check to make sure there is no cracks in the line so take it and flex it around a little bit and kind of look for cracks. I do not see anything. We are going to be in pretty good shape. If you do not see anything just go ahead and reinstall it. Then we will go ahead and reinstall our backing plate. When installing your backing plate make sure you have the right one on the right side. This one is marked left so I will be putting it on the driver side of the trailer. And of course the right side will be for the passenger side. Now, also, the new backing plate does not come with any bolts or studs like the old one did so you will have to supply new bolts, lock washers, and nuts. All right we will go ahead and tighten down our bolts now. All right, now we will go ahead and reinstall our brake line here. And route it to make sure it does not rub on anything. And once you have it set up you can go ahead and put your clip back in. Thread our line back on. Once you get them to a stop, give them about a 1/ 4 turn past and then that should be plenty enough torque to hold everything together. Once you have your hub rinsed off you will need to readjust all of the brakes inside the. You will pop off some of these dust covers here. You want to tighten them up until you can not turn the hub by hand. And then back up about 10 clicks. Eight, nine, ten. You should end up with a very slight drag.
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etrailertv uploaded a new video
(1 week ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to instal...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to install part number 11326 from Curt, and we are going to install this 1-1/4 inch receiver hitch on a 2005 Saab 9-3. First we will show you where the hitch mounts up on the frame. It is going to mount up on the side of the frame of the vehicle, and it is going to use an existing hole in the frame. This will be our access hole right here where we install our hardware. Looking at the drivers side, it is going to use this tie-down hook right here as an attachment point also. The last catch point is actually going to be on the bumper panel, which is hidden behind this plastic valance panel here. As you can see, we have got it marked out because we had to cut this section out so we can install the hitch. And then the hitch will come down from here.
So we will go ahead and take down the panel. We will take two bolts out. We will pull it down, and then we will start making our cuts. All right, now we can flex it down and use our tinsnips to make all the cuts we need. Then we will take a knife edge and we will just go across there and flex it, and then we can just break it off. Then these edges, we can just take some sandpaper and just clean those up, so that is no problem. This is the center tab here that the hitch bolts onto, the center attachment, and that is why we had to make a cutout for the hitch so 1 it can come down and 2 we have access to that. This is the hole we are going to use for our hardware. We will just put our wire tool that came with the kit out our access hole, put the lock in, thread on our bolt, pop it in and back out. At this point we can go ahead and start installing the hitch on the vehicle.
We will just attach the hitch first off by the bolt we just installed in the frame. This should help to support it and then we will work it in behind the bumper. When you install your hitch, make sure you get it over the top of the tow loop, not on the bottom. It has to be like this right here. What is going to happen is, this plate is going to go on the bottom like so. Run the bolt through, and then our flange nut goes on top. I am going to leave everything loose so we can still move our hitch around and get the center bolt set. All right, next we install our hardware for the center attachment here. There are two different sizes. This is going to be a 7/16, and this is going to be a 3/8 bolt. You can use the wire pull on that one too. Once you have all your hardware in, you can go ahead and start snugging down the bolts. Then go ahead and torque down the bolts as specified in the instructions. All right, next we can go ahead and put our fascia back into place. After finishing off with the fascia, your install is complete. And there you have it for part number 11326 from Curt.
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etrailertv uploaded a new video
(1 week ago)
Today on our 2009 Subaru Forester, we are going to install part number 13147 from Curt. All right we will go ahead and show you, the hitch mounts u...
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Today on our 2009 Subaru Forester, we are going to install part number 13147 from Curt. All right we will go ahead and show you, the hitch mounts up to the body of the vehicle and to get started we are going to have to actually lower the exhaust so we have more working room. All right also what we are going to do is put on a little safety strap, you can use a wire or something, just to control the exhaust so when we take it off the hangers it will not come falling down. All right we are just going to spray them down with some lubricant. And there is one up towards the front of the vehicle we will need to undo also. You are going to do the same two on the passenger side. Now with the exhaust out of the way you get a better view of the frame rail. What we have got to do next is go ahead and remove the rubber plugs here and here. We will just pop out this one here. With that one I think we can just grab a pair of pliers and pull straight down. All right we will do the same thing on the passenger side.
Next thing we are going to do is enlarge the holes to accept the hardware. There is two different things we are going to have to do. One, we are going to have to enlarge this hole so we can get our hardware into place because it is missing it to about an eighth of an inch so we will take out that much material. And then also this hole here we will need to drill out to about a half inch to get our hardware through there also. Go ahead and enlarge the hole. There is a variety of ways of doing it. You can use a cold chisel and just make a dent in it and just make a cut and just make enough room for you to get the hardware in. You can use a file or you can use a small rotary tool like we are going to use. And we are going to go ahead and do the same thing on the passenger side also. Now go ahead and drill out this hole to the half inch size.
If you go one size over, you have to ease pulling the bolt through too. Again we are going to do the same thing back over on the passenger side. We will go ahead and install our hardware now. We are going to run our bolt leader and through our first hole here and out our access hole. We will run it through. We will pull it out the backside and slip our block into place. Put in our bolt and pull it on back through. On the other side, pull it on back out. Then we do the same thing with the hardware here but we are just going to go straight up and then back down. First we will put in our bolt, push it out of our way and then the block. And then pull everything back down. All right we will go back to the passenger side and do the same thing again. At this point we can go ahead and start installing the hitch onto the hardware. We will slip the hitch over the exhaust and then up to the hardware and on this one it is a good idea to have an extra set of hands to help hold everything up while you thread the nuts onto the bolts. All right, at this point we can go ahead and move the hitch left and right. Get it centered on the frame as best as possible. And then go ahead and snug down the bolts. Once you get your bolts snugged down go ahead and torque the bolts as specified in the instructions. At this point we can go ahead and reinstall our exhaust by reattaching the rubber hangers. And with that, that finishes our install part number 13147 from Curt.
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etrailertv uploaded a new video
(1 week ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to be ins...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to be installing wiring harness part number 118376 on a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan. Okay, taking a look at the wiring harness here, you can see we have got a T-connector here. That is going to be plugging in behind the tail light assembly on the drivers side. We have also got a ring terminal here, next to this white wire that is our ground wire. We are going to be using a self-tapping screw that is provided in the installation kit. In the middle, we have got the black converter box, and on the other side of it is double-sided tape. That will allow us to adhere it to a surface inside to keep it up and out of the way. Here at the other end we have got the actual 4-pole that can be the connection point for your trailer.
So, the first thing we want to do is to go ahead and remove the rear drivers side tail light assembly. To do that, we need to remove the two push pins here. And then we will just pull the tail light assembly back. And, as you can see right here, we have got our connection point. Look in on the back side you can see the red tab in there that needs to be released first, before you can pull the connector apart. If you just push the tab over until it releases, and then there is a little button up here at the top, we are going to push in. And that will allow us to pull them apart. Now we will take our tail light assembly and set it off to the side for a moment. Take our wiring harness, and you can see you have got two ends. The one end is going to connect directly to the connector that is on the vehicle side. And we are pushing that together and pushing the lock tab over. The other end will be going into the back side of the tail light assembly. I put a slit into the grommet here, and I am actually going to store the converter box inside of here. That will keep it nice and weather safe for us.
For the 4-pole, we have actually got two options of where you can store that at. You can take it and also route it through the grommet through the inside, or you can pull it through the interior panel here and store it inside the jack storage compartment. Or you can actually route it outside here. We can just take this screw out from the bumper cover and we can feed it between the bumper and the body to where we can run it down below and attach it to the trailer hitch itself. And that is what we are going to do with this application. I am going to go ahead and connect the ground wire, and then we will feed the converter box through and route our 4-pole below. I am going to go ahead and cut a slit into the grommet here, and that is going to allow me to feed the wires back out once I have slid the converter box in. That should be enough there.
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