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ACPROIDQ liked a video
(2 days ago)
Recharging The A/c System
CAUTION: The high side of the A/C system is und...
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Recharging The A/c System
CAUTION: The high side of the A/C system is under considerable pressure. If a can of refrigerant is connected to the high side service fitting, it may explode! The system must therefore be recharged by using the low side service fitting only. If you are not sure which fittings are which, do not attempt to recharge your air conditioner yourself. Wear eye protection and avoid direct contact with the refrigerant as it can cause frostbite on bare skin.
The basic recharging procedure goes as follows:
1. Identify the low side service fitting.
2. Determine the type of refrigerant required by the system. On most 1993 and older vehicles, this would be R12. On most 1994 and newer vehicles, it would be R134a.
CAUTION: R12 and R134a refrigerants are incompatible and must not be intermixed. Use the type of refrigerant required for your A/C system only. On most 1993 and newer vehicles, there's an identification decal or sticker that tells what kind of refrigerant is required. Also, the size and design of R134a and R12 service fittings are different to avoid cross-contamination.
3. Connect a can of refrigerant to a gauge set or recharging hose and valve set. Follow the equipment supplier's directions for making the connections.
4. Open the valve momentarily on the gauge set or hose to blow all air out of the line (this is necessary to keep from introducing air and moisture into your A/C system).
5. Connect the gauge set or hose to the low side A/C service fitting on the vehicle. This is usually located near the receiver/drier or accumulator, or suction side of the compressor.
6. CAUTION: Make sure the can of refrigerant is held in the upright position so only vapor enters the line. Do not tip the can sideways or upside down as doing so will allow liquid to enter the low pressure side of the A/C system (This may cause damage to the A/C compressor). Also, never heat the can to make it empty faster as doing so may cause the can to explode.
7. Start the engine and turn the A/C system on high. The compressor should be engaged or cycling on and off (it may be necessary to jump the compressor clutch directly to the battery if the system is extremely low on refrigerant to keep it engaged). Compressor suction will pull refrigerant vapor into the system and slowly empty the can. This can take up to 10 minutes or more, so don't be anxious.
8. When the can is empty, disconnect the charging hose from the service fitting. Use care when disconnecting the "empty" can from the gauge set or charging hose as it may contain some residual refrigerant.
9. Add additional cans of refrigerant as needed until the system is properly charged.
CAUTION: The most common mistake made by do-it-yourselfers is overcharging. Too much refrigerant can reduce cooling efficiency just the same as too little refrigerant. To work properly, the A/C system needs just the right amount. Always refer to the system capacity specs in a shop manual or other source to determine how much refrigerant is required. System capacities are specified in ounces. One can of refrigerant equals about 14 oz. Usually three to four cans is enough to fully recharge a typical passenger car A/C system that was empty. If the system is low, one or two cans of refrigerant are usually all that's required.
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ACPROIDQ liked a video
(1 week ago)
Scott from Pep Boys is going to talk about Pep Boys brake inspections.
Y...
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Scott from Pep Boys is going to talk about Pep Boys brake inspections.
Your brake system is your vehicle's most critical system. It allows you to stop. If you ever need to make a panic stop you want to make sure your brakes are in tip top shape. Before I cover with you what the brake inspection entails, let's talk about some of the common symptoms of brake failure:
When you apply your brake, does the wheel turn one way or the other?
Is the pedal soft and mushy, or does the pedal pulsate?
Do you hear that awful screeching noise?
If your brakes have any of those symptoms you need to get to Pep Boys and allow us to perform a free brake inspection on your vehicle as soon as you can.
The first step in a brake inspection is top side under the hood. That's where your master cylinder is. The master cylinder has the reservoir that keeps all your brake fluid. We are going to make sure your brake fluid is not murky or syrupy and it's at the right level. Once we are done under the hood we put the car on the lift and pull the wheels to check both the front and rear brakes. We start with the brake hoses and make sure that they are not cracked or leaking. Then we come to the wheel end. There are three critical wheel components: the rotor, the caliber and the brake pads. First the rotor; OEM guidelines have certain thickness for the rotors. If you are below speck it won't transfer heat properly and the transfer of heat is really how your vehicle stops. If the rotor is warped, you get that pulsating brake pedal we talked about earlier. Sometimes they get gouged when brake friction hits metal to metal.
Next the brake caliber; the caliber is the hydraulic part that actually squeezes the brake pad against the rotor. Over time the brake caliber can get stuck or frozen in the sliding fixture. If that happens the inboard brake pad wears our prematurely. Sometimes that causes that grinding or screeching noise that you hear. If that's the case, the damage is often hidden on the inside, which you can't see until you take the wheel off.
The brake pads; we call them friction. The brake pads have to be a certain thickness to properly stop your vehicle. If they are too thin, they won't transfer heat. In that case they need to be replaced.
Moving to the back wheels and what we check for there, we start with the brake lines and check for cracks or leaks. Then we move to the components of the brake drum system.
First the friction, the brake shoes, again like the front that friction has a minimum thickness as prescribed by the original equipment manufacturer. We check to make sure that thickness still exists. Next is the attaching hardware, the springs and clips. Those wear out often because of the heat that is generated inside the brake drum system. Next we move on to the wheel cylinder. The wheel cylinder is actually the hydraulic apparatus that moves the brake shoes out against the brake drum and causes the friction. We make sure it's not leaking and is operating freely. Finally we inspect the brake drum. Just like the rotor up front, the brake drum has minimum thickness prescribed by the original equipment manufacturer. We check to make sure it is not scored or gouged and that minimum thickness still exists, if it doesn't we will machine it or replace it.
Thank you for watching. We hope you learned a little about brakes.
Visit http://www.PepBoy... to schedule an appointment for your free brake inspection or visit your local neighborhood Pep Boys Auto service center today.
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"@YouStupidBunny You need to check the pressure when the compressor is cy..."
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"@YouStupidBunny You need to check the pressure when the compressor is cycled on."
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ACPROIDQ uploaded a new video
(2 months ago)
This video will walk you through the guidelines for purchasing and using...
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This video will walk you through the guidelines for purchasing and using R134a for recharging your vehicles air conditioning system in the state of California
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ACPROIDQ favorited a video
(5 months ago)
This video provides a basic overview of how a vehicle A/C system operate...
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This video provides a basic overview of how a vehicle A/C system operates. For more information go to http://www.idqusa...
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