|
etrailertv uploaded a new video
(1 month ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation i...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to install part number 5510, the Brakeman Digital Remote Electronic Brake Control, and we are going to install this on a 2006 Honda Ridgeline. The first step that is involved is to go ahead and install a 20-amp circuit breaker that will go between the battery and the brake controller itself. We want it right about in this area right here. The next thing we will do is go ahead and run our wires for our battery up to our circuit breaker, and then from our circuit breaker it is going to go behind the firewall and come out by this grommet right down in here. We will push this screwdriver through it just to give you an idea of which grommet we are going to run our wires through to get to the inside of the vehicle. What we did was, we pulled the grommet loose on the inside and pulled back up on the cable. We just made a slit in it with a knife and we are going to reinstall the grommet and then push our wire through. For now we will just trace along with the original wire harness down to our battery to check for length. We can cut into our cable and put our connection points onto the circuit breaker as well as down to the battery itself, but we will hook up our battery as the last deal. We will leave our white wire connected because that is going to carry ground to our brake controller. All right, then we will hook our terminals up here temporarily. We will use the copper-color one going to our battery, and then the silver one will go out to our brake controller. Now we need to strip our cable down to our negative terminal here, so we can have a connection point there, also. Now we will take a few zip-ties and just secure our wire harness, but, again, we will just leave these connections as the last thing we do. Now we will go back underneath the dash and start making our connections to the brake controller box itself. We strip our cable back and take a few strands off, because what goes into the brake controller is really tight. The wires go from these little wire clamps inside our brake controller here and they are labeled right here which one does what. We have the feed going into the brake controller and the ground, now what we will do is go ahead and run a red wire up to our brake pedal switch. We will swing that back up with the cable and come back behind and connect them to our brake switch right here. We have to find which wire does our brake signal and then we will tap into that wire. We are actually going to probe inside the area where the wires actually go into because of the little metal tab there which actually tests without having to pierce the wires themselves. That one comes on with the brake pedal, so that is the brake signal we need. So now we need to tap off this black and white wire here. All right, and the last one we need to run is from the brake controller out back to the 7-pole connector. What we need is to match up to the rest of our wire, we will go ahead and install that into the trailer brake lug right here. What we will do now is go ahead and bundle up our wires here and make them nice and neat and then we will actually mount our brake controller up underneath the dash. OK, with all our wires hooked up and out of the way, what we will do is go ahead and mount our brake control box. And this box has a few places on the brake controller itself where you actually zip-tie it to wherever you can underneath the dash. The main thing is to keep it away from any moving parts, and, if you can, as far as possible from the heater. What we are going to do is go ahead and just zip-tie it to this cable right here and lay it at an angle here so it will be completely out of the way when you are not using it. As you can see here, we have got our brake controller zip-tied to this cable here. It is nice and light, so it is not going to go anywhere. We have got access to our port and we have got our extra wires hidden behind this little kick panel right here. So underneath the dash our install is pretty much complete except for installing the plug for our remote control, and we will do that when we test out the brake controller. So we are done here for now. So we will go ahead and run our blue wire that is underneath the engine compartment out back to the 7-pole.
less
|
|
| |
|
|
etrailertv uploaded a new video
(1 month ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation i...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to install part number 352730SC from Craftec. What this is, is a vinyl tonneau cover, and we are going to install this on a 2007 Dodge Dakota short-bed pickup. There are a lot of components to this install, but it is not too bad if you break it down into simple little sub-assemblies, as the instructions describe. We will cover some of the parts first to give you an idea of what is going on. First off, we have got these corner pieces here. These corner pieces cover the actual metal corners on the tonneau cover frame itself. We have hardware that threads into the aluminum pieces that actually make their own threads as they go in. We have our latch assemblies right here these work inside the tonneau cover. When you close it and you twist it, it catches underneath the edge of the bed itself. A pull strap to pull it down when the cover is above your head. And these are the clamps that go into the frame and on the bed that your gas shocks mount into. And these are attaching points that go into the track into the frame. You have got the bows to go into that create the bow effect on your tonneau cover, and the the bows are located right here. These are the rails themselves. These are the parts that go longways on the truck, and this part and this part are the ones that go across the truck. Some bed lengths require an extension. In this situation, the bed is so short you do not even have to worry about that. These are the metal corner pieces right here that actually get the frame bolted together and locked into place. And these little angle brackets here will eventually hold the hinge part of the tonneau cover, and also one-half of that will get clamped into place onto the bed itself. Lastly, we have the tonneau cover itself. One good tip about this is if you keep it warm overnight so it stays nice and pliable, that makes it a lot easier to work with.
less
|
|
| |
|
|
etrailertv uploaded a new video
(4 months ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation i...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to install part numbers 9460 and 4430. This is a Hide-a-Goose install kit for a 2008 Ford Super Duty pickup. This is a diesel version with a 6-foot bed. Next we are going to create some working room beneath the vehicle. We are going to take off this heat shield temporarily, and we are going to lower our exhaust system, too. That way we will have plenty of room to work with to put the head assembly between the two rails. This is the second exhaust bracket we need to lower, too. Once you have the secondary one down you can go ahead and actually pull the exhaust down a little bit out of the way to give you some more working room. Next, go ahead and loosen up the bed on this truck. It gives us a little bit easier working space underneath the vehicle. And once we get all the components installed underneath we can set the bed back in. We are just going to loosen the bed up, put some blocks in it, and maybe raise it 1-1/2 inches or so. Next, we will go ahead and mark off the bed so we know where to drill the hole. What you want to do is find the center rib and measure back on the bed, per the instructions. On our 6-foot bed, in this particular case, it is 47-7/8 inches. So from the back edge of the bed itself you want to mark off 47-7/8 inches and then you want to center it in between the fender wells. It is kind of handy to use these edges of the bed itself. We are looking at 24-1/2 to the center. And what we will do next is go ahead and punch our mark, just enough so we can see a dimple on the bottom side of the pickup, because we will save drilling the hole for one of the last things we need to do. We just loosened the bed and we have got it propped up with these blocks right here. And on the 6-foot bed, it looks like it is a little bit tail heavy, so we have got plenty of space up in front.
Before we install the rails it is a good idea to go ahead clean off the threads that are on the end here because they are covered with that powder coating and it makes it a real tough time for the nut to thread on there. So take a few minutes to run the nut off and on on so that it will be easier to install when you are ready to go. Next we will get our rails ready to install between the frame and the bed of the vehicle. Simply, all we have got to do is just run the bolts in, like so. This will actually hold the gooseneck assembly itself. But these will be trapped once the rails are in there so put the bolts in first. Next we will go ahead and install the rails. It probably would be a good idea if you have an extra set of hands on the other side to catch it. And just let the rails sit like that. The corners are going to be facing toward the outside of the vehicle. All right, next we will install our side brackets. And those simply hang onto the crossbars right here. And also, the plate will actually go across these two rivets in the frame, too. Just hang those those on there for now and just loosely put our hardware onto them. And repeat this for the other side. Next we will install the U-bolts that go toward the front of the vehicle, and they will install at an angle, like this. Now there is a shock tower right behind the plate here, so it will sit in front of it, too. Next we will go ahead and install our hardware that will go toward the rear of the vehicle, and it is going through a square hole, right here, with the carriage bolt. First, you want to install your spacer block behind the bracket, and on the back side of the bolt you install the spacer block, lock washer and the nut. We are not going to tighten these down, still. We are just going to leave everything loose so we have room to work with the head assembly.
All right, next we can install the head assembly. And we are going to take these nuts back off. We will install the head assembly with the flat washers and these nuts. When we will install our head assembly make sure that the head is offset toward the front of the vehicle. Depending on the bars you have, it is going to fit into one of these two holes on top, and the same thing on the bottom. At this point, it is a good idea to go ahead make sure that the hole here matches up to the dimple that we put in earlier in the bed. We have double-checked our dimple here and cross-referenced it with the head assembly, so it is approximately in the center position, so we will go ahead and drill out our hole. We will use a 1/4-inch pilot hole first and then follow up with our hole saw. Once we got our head assembly installed underneath the bed, we went ahead and took the blocks back out and lowered the bed down. It took a few seconds to go ahead and make sure the bed was still straight on the frame and the rest of the body. And then we go ahead and tighten the bed back down.
less
|
|
| |
|
|
etrailertv uploaded a new video
(4 months ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation i...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are installing a hitch on a 2008 Honda Ridgeline hitch number 75280. We are going to start off showing you the holes where the hitch will mount up to. It is these three here and it is the same on the other side, plus being two more on the fascia. The first step to lowering the exhaust, sometimes it helps to spray some type of lubricant on the hanger itself so you can take off the rubber grommet easier. So after you do the first one, then you do the same to the back. In some cases, after you lower the exhaust, the heat shield that is around it may come down, as well, so you have more clearance and more access in getting to the bolts on the hitch install. In this case, the heat shield is flexible enough to just move it out of the way to get the hitch installed.
Before you install the hitch it would probably be best to inspect all the holes that the hitch is going to be using to install it. It probably would be best to run a bolt through just to make sure that there is no debris in the way. After you remove the exhaust brackets and the exhaust hanger we are going to take down the heat shield behind it, as well, to give us more clearance.
All right, now we are going to raise up the hitch. And keep in mind that the hardest part to this hitch is going to be on both sides. I will point that out, because it is pretty tight clearance. But it might be best to have another set of hands when you raise the hitch. Once we have the hitch raised up and we get a bolt on each side to start it, we are going to put the rest of the bolts in and then tighten those, but leave them just loose enough to make sure everything else lines up, checking the two bolts in the bumper for plenty of movement in the hitch to allow all your other bolts to go in. All right, after you get all the bolts snug and tightened, for the most part, go back over them and torque them down to the desired torque specifications in the instructions. All right, after you have got everything torqued down, and tightened up at the hitch, it is time to up put back on the heat shield and put back up the exhaust hanger. All right, so that completes the install of part number 75280 on a 2008 Honda Ridgeline.
less
|
|
| |
|
|
etrailertv uploaded a new video
(4 months ago)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation i...
more
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are installing a Curt hitch, part number 13336 on a 2005 Chevrolet Uplander. First we are going to remove the rubber exhaust hangers and lower exhaust hanger bracket on the passengers side. All right, the next step, it says, is to remove the fascia, but due to previous wiring installation on this model it has already been removed. And the next step, it says, is to disconnect the lower compressor from the drivers side, but this model is not equipped with it. All right, the next step is to use a fish wire to run the carriage bolts and the spacers through the access slots in the frame rail, leaving the carriage bolt and spacer inside the frame rail until the hitch is raised into position. Now you repeat on the passengers side. Now, the next step is to lift the hitch into place and secure it with the bolt and washer.
Now that the hitch is up, pull the bolts through the frame rail that you just installed with the hitch fish wire. Be sure to reinstall the frame rails on the drivers side and the passengers side. Be sure before you tighten your hitch completely, when it is still a little loose, to move the hitch around to try to get it centered the best you can before you tighten everything up. Now that you have the hitch up and installed, it is time to reattach the fascia and the compressor, but in this model they have already been removed. When you are done installing the hitch, you have to torque all the bolts to its desired specifications in the instructions. All right, now that completes our installation of the Curt Hitch part number 13336 on a 2005 Chevrolet Uplander.
less
|
|
Add to iGoogle
