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From: holidaysolutions
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  • Nice red vest, faggot.

  • @mightydyckerson you pathetic

  • @MultiDreamer21 Me pathetic? No, YOU pathetic. Illiterate shithead.

  • @mightydyckerson whatever

  • @MultiDreamer21 Nice comeback, dumbass.

  • Okay how do you know the wall where you start is straight? If it is not and they usually are not, When you get to the other wall it will not be straight.

  • thank you help me a lot

  • I too was suprised to see this being installed in a bathroom (scene with toilet) surely this would not be reccomended by the manufacturer

  • nail??? lol lol lol lol lol lol never use nail on your laminate floor.because it is floating floors!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • good video, question, can you install laminate flooring over carpet?

  • im sorry to say ive done this before without actually researching it.. i didnt know about the pull bar. so the problem i had was id insert the long side in but instead of tapping to the left to join existing board i cut the tounge off and it never locked in place.. i just threw a rug down or heavy furniture to cover it.. FAIL!!! now i know so im going to do it right!

  • I did my laminate floor with a table saw and my wife complaining. That's all you really need for tools.

  • @Dmtiri88 LOL a complaining wife for a tool,yep I agree with that,constructive criticism from the wife is a must!

  • Flaco traduci al castellano no te entendi nada. eso es falta de comunicacion.

  • great vid for beginners, after your first job you'll face palm yourself at how easy this actually is.

  • I hope you don't mind me posting my video Pergo Shmergo here. It is a humorous consumer review of how repetitive the pictures of laminate flooring can be. I think people should be aware of this.

  • you cannot fit laminate in a toilet to much moisture..over time steam from your tap will swell it ,...laminate ends up like a sponge!!!!!

  • @floorlay QUICK-STEP® LAGUNE UR 1205 GREY TEAK SHIPDECK LAMINATE FLOORING DUBLIN,BATHROOM LAMINATE FLOORING

  • Nice vid. Thanks

  • Damn you Youtube now i know how install a laminate floor... XD

  • you are talking about a retro fit job where they do not want to reset the base....in that case no one has a choice ( it still does not take away from the fact that shoe mold looks like a mistake, even it has become a norm, especially in the south ) But in your Video there is NO baseboard and you are still adding shoe molding at the end.

  • And I quote, tell a floor man to take off a base board and see what his reply is.

  • look at laminaatzogelegd.nl 

  • look at laminaatzogelegd.nl

  • you don't need half those materials, but they list it to overwhelm you. Notice how he mentions lowes installs flooring right after? Because by then you're thinking, MAYBE I SHOULD JUST HIRE SOMEONE

  • So mate, I have to spend the best part of a Grand on tools before I even begin. Man, you need some Redneck in you.

  • Laminated on bathroom?????

  • @YBW0S0 lmao...exactly what i was thinking!

  • @YBW0S0 Yes you can but only if you have a downstairs bathroom upstairs with a wood floor is a bit tricky as water can leak through the joints especially if the floor is moving

  • One point about this video: be damn careful removing your baseboards / skirting boards if you are determined not to use floating trim. Loads of weekend warriors tear parts of their walls away trying to separate the boards. and create a new problem to fix.

  • @bluecobalt27 I seen one moron on HGTV taking of baseboards. He ripped out a foot of drywall...does that make sense!?!?!? How I take them out is take a knife and run it along the top of the baseboard. Where the baseboard and wall meets. Then I take a hammer and crowbar and pop em off! It doesn't ripped the drywall at all.

  • I love this guy's voice. He should be President.

  • @bluecobalt27 At this point I'd settle for someone who sounds like Peter Griffin.

  • @bluecobalt27 reminds me of mike roe

  • I got a problem that needs to solved! I lay roughly 30m2 laminate floor after one month later the floor is bumping up how 2 fix it?

  • You can't lay laminate straight from the pack. You have to let it climatise out of the pack for at least a week minimum. In other words, the wood needs to breath ( expand & contract ) until a equalibrium is reached, then lay the laminate. Don't forget that theres moisture in the air.

  • One question. Say in a rectangular area like living room/dining, does it matter how the boards are layed out? Should it be parallel to the longer walls? Or perpendicular to them?

    In bedrooms is there a standard of where to start? wall furthest to the entrance for example? And in a transition area like a door, should the boards be parallel or perpendicular?

    Thanks

  • @bigtimepimpin666

    Traditionally you lay the boards towards the light source in the room. That makes the staggered gaps between them slightly less obvious but it's no big deal. You'll find it easier to lay the boards parallel to longer walls - that was there aren't as many rows so you don't have to cut quite as often.

  • 4:45 This blew my mind. Since you are instructing on sealing around the toilet.. I thought you HAD to use tile in Bathrooms because tile contains water. Also I thought laminate's enemy was water? I thought water made it worp and just in general destroyed it?  This is why I was very surprised when I saw this part.

    If I have a wood subfloor can I still use laminate for applications like kitchen and bathroom where I can count on water spills??

  • @bigtimepimpin666

    Only certain types of boards are suitable for 'wet' areas like bathrooms and kitchens, most stores have their own range. You normally have to pay slightly more because they are designed to be more waterproof. Also, it is necessary to apply a special sealant to the tongues as you join the boards together. Check the recommended underlay too.

    It's a slightly more complex and expensive process but IMHO it is still much easier than laying ceramic tiles.

  • Nice attempt. haha, you made it sound a little complicated and you mentioned a lot of expensive tools that a lot probably don't have so they would get you guys to install them. In reality it's not that complicated. Even kids can install.

  • Hi. I have a question. Is Tarkett laminate flooring (honey oak) from Menards a good floor? It was on sale at a great price and was told it was ok. But someone told me they have had problems with cheap stuff from Menards and I should get Pergo. Is he right? I don't want to have to re-do my kitchen floor.

  • Nice.. I have done this at school but forget about how-to.. gessh

  • so basically see the manufacture instructions !!!

  • so basically see the manufacture instructions !!!

  • great video!

  • great video.

  • I'm going to take off the base boards and put them back down. I don't like the look of 1/4 round.

  • Anyone can watch my uploaded videos at youtube/user/crossfireservice

  • ...Then you set your baseboard down on the floor and since the baseboard is now higher than the caulk line) it hides the old caulk line. Re-nail it and caulk it. Try to caulk it light-just enough to allow the caulk to flex- not like some painters that apply caulk liberally like caulk hides or fixes everything...To me quarter round and shoe mold look like a mistake...it looks better, IF ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, to use two step molding...

  • After the floor thickness is applied.....Simply slide it under allowing for expansion if it has clearance for the carpet( take note that this guy is setting the spacers to the drywall which is 1/2 inch away from the framing) If you where to set the edge of the flooring to the start of the face of the drywall ( which never goes all the way down to the floor) you would have more than enough wood expansion and contraction space between the drywall and the framing. ...

  • Ok. First of all I would like to post my opinion by saying that any baseboard is thick enough to cover expansion tendencies of most woods. Quarter round or shoe mold ( which are different) is over used in the south. Granted I learned most of my trim work in South Florida where quarter round is only used to hide a mistake. If the baseboards where raised already to allow for carpet thickness there is no need to take it out. Otherwise it is better craftsmanship if you do. It will be set higher...

  • @crossfireservice it is true that you can put the laminate underneath the baseboard if it has been risen for carpet in most cases, unless it is just too tight. However, with most laminates these days, they need a particular degree to snap together and therefore your last wall of base will likely be needed to be taken up to do so. So in this instance, sure. Smaller shoe moulding in this case could be used.

  • @tuffman832000 for the rest of the posts, refer to my latest response

  • to tuffman: if you have that much to say just upload a fucking video

  • ...and you could damage walls if you remove your baseboards as well. Not cool to add more work to your simple flooring project.

  • he forgot to take out the sheetrock and wires before he put the floor down

  • lol

  • if you dont know how to take baseboard off without damaging your walls you probably dont have the required skill to be putting in flooring yourself its not hard

  • Well lets think about this, literally. 1. baseboards unless they are LARGE. meaning atleast 5/8 inch thick, are NOT sufficient for coverage on a laminate floor expansion joint. Unless you change it with a larger baseboard or already possess a large baseboard, then you would be better off just using quarterround. period

  • 2. Painted baseboards are caulked and you need to score the caulk so that it doesn't run the paint up the wall. Poorer paint jobs means more chance of running the paint up the wall. 3. If someone put down the baseboard and it's artificial material, like that fun paper stuff, then your going to damage the baseboard for sure because it snaps like a twig. Then if you wanna try to make it work somehow, go ahead with the professional caulking and paint job thereafter.

  • 4. If someone has put alotta nails in it, your gonna tear something up. If not the baseboard itself, then the wall. Bottom line is, 3/4 round is the easiest way to finish the floor, because 9 times out of ten, the baseboard won't be thick enough anyways. it needs to be at least 5/8 inch thick because the norm true dimension of 3/4 round is 5/8 x 5/8. I've put down laminates, ceramics, woods etc. down for 15 years, and taking the baseboards unless completely necessary is pointless.

  • and to finish off the thoughts on pulling off baseboard, if you do take off the baseboard, and put it back on. paint it all up, caulk it. Do all the workds, and you have to change a board. Guess what your going to be having fun doing all over again. 3/4 round is just too easy.

  • 1. no need to cut the first tongue off on row one. 2. no need for wood glue if you have a 'better' quality laminate flooring, which is actually close to same price as a cheaper one. quit going to the big box stores for floors. 3. if your good, you don't need spacers 4. stagger should be twice size of floor. 5. skil saw sux for installing laminate. 6. no reason to take up baseboards, leave em down and put quarterround like he showed you at end. stupid to waste time on removing baseboards

  • @tuffman832000 whats staggering?

  • staggering is when you make the boards different lengths in different rows. Normally the rule to go by is more than the width of the board your using. And do not allow the boards to match back up for atleast 4-5 rows.

  • @tuffman832000 Sure, but what if you don't want quarterround at the bottom of your baseboards? and why does this lowe's guy start from an edge, i thought i'm supposed to start away from the wall and mark with a chalk line?

  • Go from the wall, you use a chalk line if it's a glue down floor. Say for instance a glue down wood or nail down, or a glue down vinyl plank. That's when you would chalk it. for a floating floor installation, try to go off your straightest wall, most likely an outside wall. If you need to, use spacers that are the size that is necessary for the expansion. See the instructions.

  • If you want to use just your baseboards, you'll have to take up the baseboards. If your baseboards are 3/4 of an inch thick, then you can reuse them, if not you will need to buy new baseboard. Hence forth why they ask for 3/4 round. normal base shoe is not efficient because it's not the size required to make a good fit with the expansion necessary.

  • @tuffman832000 Ummm NO. It is called 1/4 round, NOT 3/4 round. It is called that because it is 1/4 of a circle.

    Depending on the size of the room, many laminate floors require only 1/4 inch of expansion. Most all baseboards are 3/8 or more so therefore can be used. They do not need to be 3/4 or 1 inch thick.

  • @johnsimpson99 Ummmm YEAH. 3/4" quarter round. Subfloors are not level, period, making a baseboard alone not capable of completely going smoothly over the laminate which is following the imperfections of the subfloor. Most cases people LEAVE baseboards down so they don't have to mess with scoring caulk and possible damage to the wall and having to put them back up renailing and repainting etc. etc. 9 times out of ten 3/4" quarter round is not 3/4", it's 5/8" leaving enough to cover these gaps.

  • @johnsimpson99 Also, walls are not always straight, rarely are they straight at all. This makes it hard to follow the wall therefore i recommend at least 1/4 inch expansion. the bigger the room, the more expansion needed. Some require 3/8 inch expansion, so cover that with a peice of baseboard. You stay at least 1/4 inch away and up to 1/2 inch away since not all walls are straight and can go in and out, 5/8 inch "3/4" quarter round" has it covered. 8)

  • That is only on nail down flooring..

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  • Comment removed

  • great vid.

  • 5 star

  • Want to tell me how you need spacers? to start? What if your wall isnt square.. So when you get to the tile or butt into hardwood flooring on the other end.. Your out an inch.. cause the wall you started on with spacers was out an inch...

  • do I really need to take the molding from the wall ?? or is it just to take the carpet out ??

  • Base board no. But if you have quarter around, yes.

  • In my very limited experience this is a fairly atypical laminate flooring design. Notice he clicked the ends of the second row in place. Most designs I've worked with do not allow you to do this. You either have to assemble an entire row at once (relatively easy if your row only has 3 or 4 pieces; wooden wedges help if you are working alone) or slice off the click joints at the end if you are doing a 40 foot factory floor like me and my friend were doing. Does anyone know a better way?

  • Finally, a usefull video! Im pulling my freaking hair out!

  • no glue'ing down needed? just lock then in thats it? thats going to make air space under and make noise when you walk right?

  • Thanks a lot Mister lowe's!

  • this guy def needs knee pads ..with that smock hes got on.

  • and i also want to add all lowes/home depot employees are idiots outside of telling you where to find stuff

  • where can i buy a cool vest like that?

  • Just what I was looking for! Thanks Lowe's I'm ready to start my project.

  • The grain doesn't match adjacent planks.

    Screw that manufacterer.

  • "acclimate"?

  • I almost HATE Lowes because out of the 25 time's or so I have gone there (past tense!) they have managed to screw something different up each time. From employees being unhelpful and un-educated to things not ringing up correctly if at all.... HOWEVER, THIS VIDEO IS GREAT!

  • very informative. thanks for the video!

  • this is sooo sweet thanks

  • Love the video. very simple yet effective. Thanks Alot foe the video.

  • great video...for us beginers.

  • lol my mom was looking on how to put this down and we already found out how to but this is a great video.

  • be very careful buying laminate flooring, all laminate flooring are not created equal. There are 2 things to look for, #1 what is the center or core of the flooring, particle board

    or HDF high density fiber board.#2 is the backer or back side of the flooring laminate or just paper, if the answer is particle board and paper backer, crank up the old computer and look a little more.The other question to ask what is the expansion rate, or how much will it expand, needs to be under 10%.

  • should i take my base boards off to get them under. someone suggested taking a skill saw to the attached base board, he thought it would be to risky taking them off. what do you think.

  • Yes, take the base boards off, but watch the gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, don;t get it too tight. The best way is to look on the packaging or go to the product web site and find the expansion rate, if you get the gap too small the flooring will buck even with the little rubber spacers. The rule of thumb to go by the smaller the expansion rate the better quality the flooring.The expansion rates will range from about 5% to as much as 12% to 14% .
  • either take them off or add a piece of quarter round to the front

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