Climbing Tools: Backing up your rappel

[whaaaaateverful]

I learned the leg-loop version with one slight variation. instead of both ends of the autoblock cord clipping into the biner, the cord sling is girth hitched around the leg loop, fed around the ropes for the autoblock, and then clipped into a biner on the leg loop (above the girth hitch).

I'm wondering if your way is easier, safer or both.

[Evak103]

cow punching!!! ^_^

[bucket303]

Speaking from ONLY my personal experiance I use both depending on the application. The first one is great if you plan on being hands-free and hanging for any length of time; cleaning up a route ect, because your weight is centered, alot more comfortable and the prussik is below the device meaning its alot easier to undo once weighted. For just your standard abseil I find the second to be fine as usually you really dont want to be letting go of the rope because for us gents it can be a bit sore.

[masonbiker01]

Wouldn't it be better if the sling was girth hitched to both tie in point, not just the single belay loop? This would increase redundancy.

[splashclimber1]

What are the rabbit ears in the end of the 2nd method? ( I can assume.... either figure 8 or an overhand knot?)

[beholderlt]

@splashclimber1 looks like an overhand to me.

[ItalianTREK]

A shorter loop may blocked less in the rocks and a machard is quicker of prusik

[snowyywwinters]

i like to use a shunt. think its worth the weight, but always have loops there just incase:)

[Smethjt05]

Which would you prefer on a regular basis- leg loop backup or extending the rappel and backing up with the belay loop?

Thanks

[mikebarter387]

The extended rap device is Tom's thing which at first looked a bit weird but after seeing a demo i quite like it. I of course was aware that it had been done that way by many. Personally I almost always use the leg loop thing more out of habit then any other reason. I have also in teh past quickly placed the prusik above the rap device because I didn't extend, this however is a major pain to unload once it has been weighted. you could ask Tom he is the sawbackwc that you see in these comments.

[sawbackwc]

(continued) These two systems are in my opinion the best and easiest backup systems, each with their unique advantages/disadvantages. I use the leg loop backup by far the most because it's simple and can be added easily while on rappel if required.

[carolannmarie]

My climbing buddy had me set up this way, but I questioned him too much on the safety...well he made me do the walk down. But I am glad you are on youtube. I guess I need to climb Canada.

[plapides]

Thanks for the video. I have a prusik line permanently on my leg loop that is very fast to attach to create a backup when sport climbing, multi-pitch, etc.

[aurelrica]

tks alot, i love you're ways because are simple and effective. ou can doo everything in anny situation with a rope and a few prusics...

[koepkeca]

Thanks for another great video Mike!!

We all appreciate the time and effort you put into these!

[hanni387]

These are the best vids on climbing that I have found so far. Thanks mike your the greatest.

[6kuku9]

Interesting variation on the french prusik - thanx - one question - wouldn't using a classic prusik as your backup make for a very jerky descent and consequent strain on anchors?

[mikebarter387]

wouldnt be much of a anchor then, If you keep the prusik loose enough it will slide smoothly along the rope. That has been my experience.

[6kuku9]

well - I'm always open to improving my technique and experience has taught me to listen to experience :) - I usually use a french prusik off my leg loop without extending my belay brake and I have difficulty descending smoothly - so more often than not don't use a backup - if this works better then I owe you a beer :)

[sawbackwc]

I only use a backup if I think there's a chance I'll be letting go. If the rap is uncomplicated and there is no chance of getting knocked unconscious then I don't bother with a backup because, as a few comments point out, backups slow things down. If I think there will be issues, i.e. I'll need to build a station, untangle the rope, or if there is overhead hazard then obviously taking the time to use one of these backups will be my choice -- and I'll deal with the hassles.

[6kuku9]

I think we're of one mind on this - climbing in the UK planned abseils are rare, so if I'm doing it at all it generally means something's wrong and anchors sometimes leave much to be desired :) - what I love about these vids are that you guys have different ways of doing things and it's good to have your perspective broadened - also the humour makes a refreshing change - too many climbers seem to take themselves far too seriously - keep 'em coming :)