Added: 3 years ago
From: oneacrewine
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  • hi dave

    thanks for posting the video,i am from eastern part of india,west bengal,where summer temperature is around 40-50 degree centigrade and winter temperature around 9-12 degree centigrade and annual rainfall around 900-1,400 millimetres,and the soil is red and laterite, porous, low in organic matter and nutrients and pH varies between 4.8 and 6.5. is it suitable for cultivation of grapes ? if yes then what kind of grapes?please suggest

    thanks

    souvik

  • Thank you for your videos.

    I have a question. I have a 12 inch grape seedling, I was wondering when i should transplant it and how should I care for / nuture it properly ?

    I would appreciate your advice.

    Thank you once again.

  • Hello eden1grapes,

    Thanks very much for watching the videos. This time of year would be a good time to transplant your vine to a permanent site. It will be important to keep it well watered as it grows. During the 1st year you will want the root structure to develop fully, so if any fruit develops during the 1st year you could remove it. That will allow the extra energy of the plant to go toward the roots. Then next year, prune it back to just several buds and allow it to grow up a trellis.

  • Hi Dave,

    I have a small red grape plant from seed, and it is now about 12inches in height, when could I transplant it to it's permanent site? and how do I go about caring for it?

  • Dave Thanks very much for these! a question: why did you choose east to west configuration rather than north south? Is this only becasue of the shape of the land you had?

  • Hello dturker

    The east west orientation had a little to do with the shape of the land but more to do with the effects of the sun on the fruit Typically north south row orientation contributes to maximum light to the canopy and maximum fruit exposure to the sun on hot summer afternoons. In our area this could create more of a problem with raisining and sunburn. Were we are an East West row reduces the light to the canopy and the fruit so there is not too much exposure

    Thanks for watching

    Dave

  • Dave, I really enjoyed you style of teaching and sharing your knowledge of growing grapes. I am looking forward to viewing your future videos. Thanks .

  • Another great video, Dave. Thanks a ton. By the way, I received the wine and it's sitting in the wine cooler now. I'm looking forward to opening it!

  • Hi wpattison

    Let me know what you think about the wine when you try it. The 2006 is now bottled (about 200 cases) the Brix was just a little higher when we picked in 2006 - 25.4 - and the pH was slightly higher -- 3.66 -but the TA was exactly the same at 0.53. I have not released it yet, maybe in the autumn.

    Thanks again,

    Dave

  • when ii pruned my grapes this spring, i put the stems in pots to root , which they have. now i find that in some soils there is an aphid. so i may need to graft to a better root. how do i graft on to a better root?

  • Hello dufusrunescape

    1st you may want to check with a grape vine nursery on the kind of rootstocks they have. If it is the aphid like bug phylloxera that is in the soil ask the nursery about 101-14, 3309 C, 110 R, or 1103 P. There are 2 primary kinds of grafting, bench and field. Field grafting is done where rootstocks have already been planted, bench grafting is done indoors using a saw machine. It may be that the nursery that has the rootstocks could do a bench graft for you using your scion

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