Just been watching your vids, very interesting, I have a Cummins Ram so not looking forward to that job. What a great feeling the first start after a teardown !
It was a very good feeling to have the motor crank, and run without anything wrong after the repair... I was expecting to have a loose bolt, or a small oil leak. This was the first take of the film. No tricks. Just double check everything, and hit the key, watch for fuel at teh injector lines, and crank away with your foot to the floor until it starts to fire...
Heres a little trick you can use when firing up after having the injector lines off.
Put all your lines back on, but 2 turns loose at the head.
Bypass the fuel pump relay so that the electric pump is on, and rotate the motor over slowly by hand at the nut on the gear at the injector pump, or with a barring tool on the flywheel. Usually only one rotation is enough to fill all the lines, and it will fire up first shot after tightening the fittings. Works great.
Thanks. I'll have to try that. I have a FASS fuel system (15PSI 90GPH), so I just kept bumping the starter and giving the engine a 1/4 turn until I saw a few air bubble coming out of the lines, then I cranked and stayed on the starter until the fuel had some pressure coming out of the fuel lines.. Closed the lines up, adn cranked on 'er again. Admittedly I do like hearing a Diesel only fire on a few cylinders while the rest of the injectors catch prime.. hehehe
Awesome videos on step by step repair. Are you a diesel mechanic? Hey, is this the truck that is in your other video "Cold Start", the one that has low compression pistons on it? Also, is that a twin turbo setup i see? Awesome vid.
Hey man, thanks for the kind words. I'm not a "real" Diesel Mechanic, but I'm pretty handy with them. I've learned alot over on TDR1. com Yes this is the same truck as the "Cold Start". The "Cold Start" wouldn't have been so bad if my ECM wouldn't overfuel so much on startup. Grid heaters and an Block heater may have helped as well... LOL
i was looking at your video. I am a cummins diesel mechanic but i work on forklifts and spotting tractors and i seen this and very good job there is a few things that would make it a easy job thought MORE ROOM cause when working on a forklift or spotter just pull the radiator out lol but there is a air box on the side of the motor if you take that off you can get to the tappets. And you should align the injection pump, cam, crack before you remove the injection pump
crank opps and i say that because in some cases thier isn't a keyway also you should mark the injection pump so you can make sure it is in the same spot the holes are slotted so you can turn it. It is marked with lines you just have to clean them and make sure you can see the lines i cant think of anything else
oh and if that air box leaks oil replace the cover cause its bent and won't make a good seal new rubbers grommets on the bolts won't work so good job pat yourself on your back for me
All VP44 trucks have a keyway. Mechanical pumps ('94 - '98.0 tappered shaft only), and older rotary pumped trucks have slotted mounting holes (1st gen, '88 -'93) , or no keyways. In that case, aligning the pump is absolutely critical, good call.
right i thinking about putting the years in the mix too just to inform people if they use this as a referance but man you hit this right on the button and as far as the side cover goes i haven't pulled one off in a dodge truck so i really wouldn't know YET but on a forklift their is a lot of room and the computer is only 4 blots and three wire connectors infact today i changed a computer took me 25 min
It was more hassle to remove the side cover. I just used some modified 1/2 dowels to keep the tappets up (shaped like a bullet). The ECM, and fuel filter are directly in the way, along with alot of brake lines, clutch line, and fuel lines.
i regreat the day i really have to get into my truck i know what needs to be done to actually fix it but the room isnt going to make it easy and the dowel pins is a good idea. if my boss seen me do that i'd be in trouble the wood splinters would be in the oil and mess the motor up and give me some shit about it. but as far as that goes if it was on my own truck i would do that
mines a 01 so would it have it?
grizzlyman239 1 year ago
what year is this truck? I thought it was pretty rare to see the KDP problem after 2001 trucks.
mstep3 1 year ago
@mstep3 It's a '98.5. It is rare.
purpleflavoredcherry 1 year ago
turny but no runy :(
trythinking360 2 years ago
24 valve with a KDP issue???
dieselindeed 2 years ago
Unless it's a common Rail, the KDP needs tabbed....
purpleflavoredcherry 2 years ago
Just been watching your vids, very interesting, I have a Cummins Ram so not looking forward to that job. What a great feeling the first start after a teardown !
mr2jags 2 years ago
It was a very good feeling to have the motor crank, and run without anything wrong after the repair... I was expecting to have a loose bolt, or a small oil leak. This was the first take of the film. No tricks. Just double check everything, and hit the key, watch for fuel at teh injector lines, and crank away with your foot to the floor until it starts to fire...
purpleflavoredcherry 2 years ago
Some great vids you have there.
Heres a little trick you can use when firing up after having the injector lines off.
Put all your lines back on, but 2 turns loose at the head.
Bypass the fuel pump relay so that the electric pump is on, and rotate the motor over slowly by hand at the nut on the gear at the injector pump, or with a barring tool on the flywheel. Usually only one rotation is enough to fill all the lines, and it will fire up first shot after tightening the fittings. Works great.
HemiHotRod 2 years ago
Thanks. I'll have to try that. I have a FASS fuel system (15PSI 90GPH), so I just kept bumping the starter and giving the engine a 1/4 turn until I saw a few air bubble coming out of the lines, then I cranked and stayed on the starter until the fuel had some pressure coming out of the fuel lines.. Closed the lines up, adn cranked on 'er again. Admittedly I do like hearing a Diesel only fire on a few cylinders while the rest of the injectors catch prime.. hehehe
purpleflavoredcherry 2 years ago
Awesome videos on step by step repair. Are you a diesel mechanic? Hey, is this the truck that is in your other video "Cold Start", the one that has low compression pistons on it? Also, is that a twin turbo setup i see? Awesome vid.
brockmirabella 3 years ago
Hey man, thanks for the kind words. I'm not a "real" Diesel Mechanic, but I'm pretty handy with them. I've learned alot over on TDR1. com Yes this is the same truck as the "Cold Start". The "Cold Start" wouldn't have been so bad if my ECM wouldn't overfuel so much on startup. Grid heaters and an Block heater may have helped as well... LOL
purpleflavoredcherry 3 years ago
i was looking at your video. I am a cummins diesel mechanic but i work on forklifts and spotting tractors and i seen this and very good job there is a few things that would make it a easy job thought MORE ROOM cause when working on a forklift or spotter just pull the radiator out lol but there is a air box on the side of the motor if you take that off you can get to the tappets. And you should align the injection pump, cam, crack before you remove the injection pump
cumminonchevy 3 years ago
crank opps and i say that because in some cases thier isn't a keyway also you should mark the injection pump so you can make sure it is in the same spot the holes are slotted so you can turn it. It is marked with lines you just have to clean them and make sure you can see the lines i cant think of anything else
oh and if that air box leaks oil replace the cover cause its bent and won't make a good seal new rubbers grommets on the bolts won't work so good job pat yourself on your back for me
cumminonchevy 3 years ago
All VP44 trucks have a keyway. Mechanical pumps ('94 - '98.0 tappered shaft only), and older rotary pumped trucks have slotted mounting holes (1st gen, '88 -'93) , or no keyways. In that case, aligning the pump is absolutely critical, good call.
purpleflavoredcherry 3 years ago
right i thinking about putting the years in the mix too just to inform people if they use this as a referance but man you hit this right on the button and as far as the side cover goes i haven't pulled one off in a dodge truck so i really wouldn't know YET but on a forklift their is a lot of room and the computer is only 4 blots and three wire connectors infact today i changed a computer took me 25 min
cumminonchevy 3 years ago
4 bolts and two connectors and power and ground wires to the computer i mean to say
cumminonchevy 3 years ago
It was more hassle to remove the side cover. I just used some modified 1/2 dowels to keep the tappets up (shaped like a bullet). The ECM, and fuel filter are directly in the way, along with alot of brake lines, clutch line, and fuel lines.
purpleflavoredcherry 3 years ago
i regreat the day i really have to get into my truck i know what needs to be done to actually fix it but the room isnt going to make it easy and the dowel pins is a good idea. if my boss seen me do that i'd be in trouble the wood splinters would be in the oil and mess the motor up and give me some shit about it. but as far as that goes if it was on my own truck i would do that
cumminonchevy 3 years ago
as a diesel mechanic myself and work only on cummins engines i found this very good video
cumminonchevy 3 years ago