I don't think this is centered on your 4 way jaw. I don't see how they could have produced the cylindrical surfaces out of round this way - do you? As surely they were turning this in the same manner.
Also, even if the exterior of the prop is not tapered significantly, that does not mean that it is necessarily parallel to the bore. The critical aspect is the relationship of the bore to the prop face, which should be a right angle. My guess is that if you were to put a good tight mandrel into the bore and run it between centers that you might see a big difference. Just a suggestion!
is bolted to is at a right angle (perpendicular) to the axis of the bore , the prop should run true. For example, in gunsmithing work a smith who wishes to chamber a barrel accurately will indicate the bore of the barrel to run true in his lathe, disregarding the outer surface of the barrel since the barrel exterior may not be parallel to the bore if you see what I mean. Have you tried turning this hub between centers? This is just a suggestion and not intended as a defense of the manufacturer.
Hello mightymouse; back again with a question this time. It LOOKS (it is hard to tell from the video) as if the exterior cylindrical surface that you have chucked the part into might be tapered; it is possible that, if the part were held in a mandrel and driven between centers that it might run true. This may sound counterintuitive, but the bore and outer circumference do not necessarily have to be machined parallel to one another for the device to work. As long as the surface that the propeller
@ruscccpsia2010. That's what I'll be doing is building my own prop hub & my own wooden prop. If you have to do something these days, you have to do it yourself.!
mightymouse, The days when you could expect top notch machine work from any company in the US are long over. I live in the US and went to high school from 1967 to 1971, back then, we still had vocational-technical school programs in machining, but that was the end of the era. Machine work was already being outsourced and factories closing back then. What I am saying is; the competant, quality oriented US machinists are either retired, in nursing homes, or dead.
@Matthewsglenn - Sorry but you are talking crap! From working in the tooling industry, Microns can easily be measured! And micron accuracy on parts are all dependant on the tools used. If a tool is precisely ground and most top end lathes have tolerance ranges up to .0000 it is possible!
Sorry to be negative but I strongly disagree that you can work to 1/1000th of a millimeter (1 micron) this is neer impossible to mesuare let alone turn on a mini lathe!!
I could be wrong but i dont think youve got it centred in the chuck. You should of put it in the 4 jaw then used a DTI gauge to check how true the bore it is. I could be wrong tho. If not use your lathe to make a mandrel and put it in a collet chuck (mush more acurate than 3jaw) and check it that way.
As the hub is going on a tappered & bolted into a H-Bushing all edges are meant be perfect. Considering the hub will be spinning at about 2500RPM+ with a 36 Inch propeller attached to it inside a thrust duct. I work on 1/1000th of a millimeter for all my edges. Especially when the propeller has only 1/8th inch clearance. This is to be fair also, the product came from a professional.!
But if the hub is tappered, (I assume the tappered part is the part that is now clamped in the jaws of your lathe), how can your "square" chuck jaws clamp accurately onto a tappered part?
Very informative, thanks for posting
metalartist67 8 months ago
I don't think this is centered on your 4 way jaw. I don't see how they could have produced the cylindrical surfaces out of round this way - do you? As surely they were turning this in the same manner.
jagatronbbb 11 months ago
wow , wedick 0 lus your holding a casting, read a book first, nuff mouth for another tooth
ROCKNTV1 1 year ago
Hi mightymouse,
How have you found the Seig C3 lathe?. I'm now looking into buying a small hobby type lathe. Whats the quality like?.
Regards Kevin
blasttiod 1 year ago
Also, even if the exterior of the prop is not tapered significantly, that does not mean that it is necessarily parallel to the bore. The critical aspect is the relationship of the bore to the prop face, which should be a right angle. My guess is that if you were to put a good tight mandrel into the bore and run it between centers that you might see a big difference. Just a suggestion!
Srbija575 1 year ago
is bolted to is at a right angle (perpendicular) to the axis of the bore , the prop should run true. For example, in gunsmithing work a smith who wishes to chamber a barrel accurately will indicate the bore of the barrel to run true in his lathe, disregarding the outer surface of the barrel since the barrel exterior may not be parallel to the bore if you see what I mean. Have you tried turning this hub between centers? This is just a suggestion and not intended as a defense of the manufacturer.
Srbija575 1 year ago
Hello mightymouse; back again with a question this time. It LOOKS (it is hard to tell from the video) as if the exterior cylindrical surface that you have chucked the part into might be tapered; it is possible that, if the part were held in a mandrel and driven between centers that it might run true. This may sound counterintuitive, but the bore and outer circumference do not necessarily have to be machined parallel to one another for the device to work. As long as the surface that the propeller
Srbija575 1 year ago
Well since you have a lathe right there why not just make your own prop?
ruscccpsia2010 1 year ago
@ruscccpsia2010. That's what I'll be doing is building my own prop hub & my own wooden prop. If you have to do something these days, you have to do it yourself.!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
mightymouse, The days when you could expect top notch machine work from any company in the US are long over. I live in the US and went to high school from 1967 to 1971, back then, we still had vocational-technical school programs in machining, but that was the end of the era. Machine work was already being outsourced and factories closing back then. What I am saying is; the competant, quality oriented US machinists are either retired, in nursing homes, or dead.
Srbija575 1 year ago
@Srbija575 - This would have to best one of thes comments I have heard in a long time.!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
@Srbija575. I agree, you just can't get good people in the trade any more, most are all gone now.!!!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
@Matthewsglenn - Sorry but you are talking crap! From working in the tooling industry, Microns can easily be measured! And micron accuracy on parts are all dependant on the tools used. If a tool is precisely ground and most top end lathes have tolerance ranges up to .0000 it is possible!
ryanstewart86 1 year ago
@ryanstewart86 - Correct on all accounts. I have digital readouts on the dials and they state 1000th of 1 mm.!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
Sorry to be negative but I strongly disagree that you can work to 1/1000th of a millimeter (1 micron) this is neer impossible to mesuare let alone turn on a mini lathe!!
matthewsglenn 2 years ago
@matthewsglenn - This is possible, as I have produced quality workmanship in various products I have made. I do work with 1000th of 1mm.!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
I could be wrong but i dont think youve got it centred in the chuck. You should of put it in the 4 jaw then used a DTI gauge to check how true the bore it is. I could be wrong tho. If not use your lathe to make a mandrel and put it in a collet chuck (mush more acurate than 3jaw) and check it that way.
wackedoutdude 2 years ago
@wackedoutdude you are not wrong if you look at the center bore its wobling too he has it in the chuck croocked
pat562712 1 year ago
@wackedoutdude - The product is centered & checked with a dial.!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
@wackedoutdude. I use a 3 jaw chuck that centres itself, and it's a true centre.!
mightymouse330 1 year ago
It looks like to be fair you should run it on a shaft. the outside of the hub may not be machined, because it doesn't need to be.
Justalabrat 2 years ago
As the hub is going on a tappered & bolted into a H-Bushing all edges are meant be perfect. Considering the hub will be spinning at about 2500RPM+ with a 36 Inch propeller attached to it inside a thrust duct. I work on 1/1000th of a millimeter for all my edges. Especially when the propeller has only 1/8th inch clearance. This is to be fair also, the product came from a professional.!
mightymouse330 2 years ago
But if the hub is tappered, (I assume the tappered part is the part that is now clamped in the jaws of your lathe), how can your "square" chuck jaws clamp accurately onto a tappered part?
Justalabrat 2 years ago
It does need to be otherwise it will be out of balance and shatter his prop and ruin the engine as well. The vibration will be enormous.
jsa2001 2 years ago
How could they even make it that badly? It looks like it would have been easier to make it straight in the first place than wobbly like that.
Sw4gg4 2 years ago
Unfortunately this is how it arrived.!
mightymouse330 2 years ago
Send them your video.
jsa2001 2 years ago